If you’ve just gotten your first Bushnell telescope, you might be wondering where to start. Learning how to use a Bushnell telescope is easier than you think, and this guide will walk you through every step. With a little patience and practice, you’ll be viewing the Moon’s craters, Saturn’s rings, and distant star clusters in no time.
How To Use A Bushnell Telescope
This section covers the universal first steps for almost any Bushnell model. Before you even look at the sky, you need to get familiar with your equipment.
Unboxing and Identifying Your Telescope Parts
Carefully take everything out of the box. Lay the parts on a clean floor. Your Bushnell telescope will have several key components you need to identify.
- The Optical Tube: This is the main body of the telescope. It’s the long tube that gathers light.
- The Mount: This is the tripod or base that holds the tube. It allows you to point the telescope smoothly.
- The Finderscope: This is a small, low-power telescope attached to the main tube. It’s your “gun sight” for finding objects.
- Eyepieces: These are the removable lenses you look through. They usually come in different magnifications (e.g., 20mm, 10mm, 4mm). The lower the number, the higher the magnification.
- The Focuser: This is the knob or rack-and-pinion mechanism that moves the eyepiece in and out to sharpen the image.
Assembling the Tripod and Mount
Start by extending the tripod legs. Most Bushnell tripods have a clasp or lever to lock each leg section. Make sure all locks are tight. Place the tripod on solid, level ground. If your mount (the head that holds the tube) is separate, attach it to the top of the tripod now. It usually screws into a central bolt.
Attaching the Optical Tube
Locate the mounting bracket on the optical tube. It’s often a pair of metal rings. Line this bracket up with the mount on the tripod. There will usually a clamp or a set of screws to secure the tube. Tighten these firmly, but don’t over-tighten. The tube should be held securely but you should still be able to rotate it slightly for balance.
Aligning the Finderscope (The Most Important Step)
A misaligned finderscope is the number one reason beginners get frustrated. Do this during the day, aiming at a distant object like a telephone pole or a treetop.
- Insert your lowest-power eyepiece (the one with the highest mm number, like 20mm or 25mm) into the focuser.
- Without using the finderscope, point the main telescope at your distant target. Center it carefully in the main eyepiece and focus until it’s sharp.
- Now, look through the finderscope. You’ll likely see the same object, but it won’t be centered. It will be off to the side.
- On the finderscope bracket, you’ll see adjustment screws or knobs. Gently turn these to move the crosshairs of the finderscope until they are centered directly on the object you see in the main telescope’s eyepiece.
- Double-check by looking back in the main eyepiece. If the object moved, re-center it and adjust the finderscope again. Repeat until both are perfectly aligned.
Understanding Your Eyepieces and Magnification
Magnification is calculated by dividing the telescope’s focal length by the eyepiece’s focal length. You can find your telescope’s focal length on the box or the tube itself (e.g., 700mm or 1000mm).
- A 20mm eyepiece on a 700mm telescope gives 35x magnification (700/20 = 35).
- A 10mm eyepiece on the same scope gives 70x magnification.
- A 4mm eyepiece gives 175x magnification.
Pro Tip: Always start with your lowest-power eyepiece (highest mm number). It gives a wider, brighter view and is much easier to focus and find objects with. Save the high-power eyepieces for when you’ve centered an object and want a closer look.
First Night Out: Practical Observing Steps
Now that your telescope is set up and aligned, it’s time for your first real observing session. Choose a clear night and give your eyes about 20 minutes to adjust to the dark.
Choosing Your First Targets
Start with easy, bright objects. The Moon is the perfect first target. It’s bright, detailed, and easy to find. After the Moon, try bright planets like Jupiter or Saturn. They look like very bright, non-twinkling stars. Later, you can move on to star clusters and nebulae.
How to Find and Track Objects
- Locate with Your Eyes: First, find the object with your naked eye. Know roughly where it is in the sky.
- Use the Finderscope: Looking through the finderscope, point the telescope so the object’s in the crosshairs. This takes practice—move the telescope slowly.
- Look in the Eyepiece: With the object centered in the finderscope, it should be visible in your main eyepiece. It might be blurry.
- Focus: Slowly turn the focus knobs until the image becomes sharp and clear. If you don’t see anything, double-check your finderscope alignment and go back to step 2.
- Track the Object: The Earth rotates, so objects will drift out of view. Gently nudge your telescope to follow them. This is where a smooth mount is essential.
Focusing Techniques for Clear Views
Focusing can be tricky on faint objects. If your having trouble, turn the focus knob very slowly in one direction. Watch the pattern of the stars change. If they turn from large blurry disks into small sharp points, you’ve found focus. If they get worse, turn the knob the opposite direction. For planets and the Moon, focus on the edge or a crater rim for the sharpest detail.
Understanding Different Bushnell Telescope Types
Bushnell makes several types of telescopes. Knowing which one you have helps you understand it’s strengths.
Refractor Telescopes
These use lenses at the front of the tube. They have a long, thin tube. They are great for viewing the Moon, planets, and terrestrial targets like birds. They require little maintenance and give sharp, high-contrast images. They can be more expensive for larger sizes.
Reflector Telescopes
These use a mirror at the bottom of the tube. They have a shorter, wider tube. They offer a lot of aperture (light-gathering power) for your money, making them excellent for viewing faint deep-sky objects like galaxies and nebulae. They may need occasional mirror alignment, called collimation.
Compound (Catadioptric) Telescopes
These use a combination of mirrors and lenses, often in a compact, tub-like design. They are versatile and portable, good for both planets and deep-sky objects. Popular models include the Bushnell NorthStar and Voyager series.
Advanced Tips and Maintenance
Once you’ve mastered the basics, these tips will improve your experience.
Collimating a Reflector Telescope
If stars that should be pinpoints look like little comets or seagulls, your reflector’s mirrors might be out of alignment. Collimation is the process of re-aligning them. You can buy a simple collimation cap or Cheshire eyepiece. The manual for your specific model should have instructions. It sounds scary, but with a tool, it’s a quick 5-minute task.
Choosing the Right Accessories
- Barlow Lens: This doubles or triples the power of your existing eyepieces. A 2x Barlow turns your 20mm eyepiece into a 10mm.
- Moon Filter: The full Moon is extremely bright. A neutral density Moon filter cuts the glare and improves contrast, letting you see more detail.
- Better Eyepieces: The eyepieces that come with telescopes are often basic. Upgrading to a Plössl or wide-field eyepiece can make a huge difference in comfort and view quality.
Care and Cleaning
Never touch the glass of your lenses or mirrors with your fingers. The oils can damage coatings. Keep dust caps on when not in use. For light dust, use a soft-bristled brush like a photographer’s lens blower brush. For stubborn smudges, use lens cleaning fluid and special microfiber cloths designed for optics. Clean only when absolutely necessary.
Using Star Charts and Apps
A planisphere (star wheel) or a smartphone app like Stellarium or SkySafari is invaluable. They show you what’s up in your sky tonight and help you locate specific constellations and objects. Turn your phone’s screen red to preserve your night vision.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Don’t worry if things don’t go perfectly at first. Here are solutions to common issues.
- Everything looks blurry: You are out of focus. Turn the focus knob slowly. Also, ensure you’ve removed any lens cap from the front of the telescope.
- I see nothing but darkness: Check all lens and mirror caps are off. Make sure your finderscope is aligned. You might be pointed at empty sky. Start with a bright, easy target like the Moon.
- The image is shaky: Make sure your tripod legs are fully extended and locked. Don’t extend the thin lower sections if you don’t need the height. Hang a small weight (like a bag of sand) from the hook often found under the tripod’s center to stabilize it.
- Objects drift away too fast: This is normal! You are seeing Earth’s rotation. Just gently nudge the telescope to follow. Higher magnification makes it happen faster.
- Planets look like little balls, not big disks: Atmospheric conditions (“seeing”) affect high-power views. Some nights the air is turbulent. Also, you may need more magnification. Try your higher-power eyepiece or a Barlow lens.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What can I see with my Bushnell telescope?
You can see the Moon’s craters in great detail, Jupiter and its four largest moons, Saturn’s rings, bright star clusters like the Pleiades, and under dark skies, some nebulae like the Orion Nebula. You won’t see Hubble-like color images, but the views can be breathtaking.
Why is my finderscope so hard to use?
It takes practice. The key is a perfect daytime alignment. Also, try a “red dot” finder as an upgrade. It projects a red dot onto the sky, which many people find more intuitive than a finderscope.
Can I use my Bushnell telescope to look at things on land?
Yes, but most astronomical telescopes show images upside-down or mirrored. This is fine for the sky but disorienting for terrestrial viewing. You can buy an “erecting prism” accessory that corrects the image for land use.
How do I choose the right Bushnell telescope for a beginner?
Look for a model with a stable mount—this is more important than huge magnification claims. A reflector or refractor with a 70mm to 130mm aperture (lens or mirror diameter) on a simple alt-azimuth mount is a great start. Avoid very cheap, wobbly models on flimsy tripods.
My telescope came with a 3x Barlow lens. Should I use it?
Be cautious. A 3x Barlow gives very high power, which amplifies shakiness and blurs due to bad atmospheric conditions. It’s often too much power for most viewing. Try your eyepieces without it first, then experiment with the Barlow on a very steady, clear night.
How important is a motor drive?
For beginners, it’s not essential. A motor drive (or “clock drive”) automatically tracks objects, which is convenient. But learning to manually track is part of the skill. You can always add a motor drive later if your mount supports it.
Remember, astronomy is a hobby of patience. Your first few nights might involve more fumbling than viewing, but that’s normal. Each time you go out, you’ll get faster at setup and better at finding objects. The key is to start simple, with the Moon, and gradually work your way to fainter treasures. Clear skies!