How To Level Rifle Scope

Getting your rifle scope perfectly level is one of the most important steps in the zeroing process. If you want to hit your target consistently, knowing how to level rifle scope is a fundamental skill you need to master. A canted scope, even by a few degrees, can cause significant misses at longer distances. This guide will walk you through several reliable methods, from simple tools to professional kits, ensuring your crosshairs are perfectly straight.

A level scope ensures your elevation and windage adjustments work exactly as intended. When your rifle is canted, your bullet impact will drift in the direction of the cant. This error grows with distance, turning a near-perfect shot into a frustrating miss. Taking the time to do this correctly will build a solid foundation for an accurate rifle.

How to Level Rifle Scope

Before you start, make sure you have a stable work surface. A gun vise is ideal, but a sturdy bench and padded rest will work. You’ll also need your scope, rings, a screwdriver or torque wrench, and your chosen leveling tools. Always refer to your scope and ring manufacturers instructions for specific torque values.

Essential Tools for the Job
You don’t always need expensive gear, but the right tools make the job much easier and more precise. Here are the most common options:
* Wheeler Professional Leveling Kit: This popular kit includes levels for the rifle’s action and the scope turret, plus alignment bars.
* Dual-Axis Bubble Levels: These small levels attach to your scope rail or scope tube to provide a constant visual reference while shooting.
* Basic Carpenter’s Level: A small, accurate level can work in a pinch for checking the rifle’s receiver.
* Improvised Methods: Many shooters successfully use items like playing cards or feeler gauges for a specific technique we’ll cover.

Method 1: The Leveling Kit Method (Most Accurate)
This is the preferred method for most serious shooters because it removes guesswork.

1. Level Your Rifle First. Place your rifle securely in the vise. Position a small level across the flat section of the receiver or on the Picatinny rail itself. Adjust the rifle in the vise until it is perfectly level. This is your critical baseline.
2. Mount the Scope Rings. Attach the scope ring bases to the rifle if they aren’t already on. Then, install the bottom halves of the rings, but don’t tighten them completely yet—just enough to hold them in place.
3. Use Alignment Bars (If Available). Place the alignment bars from your kit into the ring halves. Look down from above; the bars should form a single, uninterrupted line. Adjust the rings if needed until they are perfectly aligned. This step prevents putting lateral stress on the scope tube.
4. Set the Scope in the Rings. Remove the alignment bars and carefully place your scope in the rings. Lightly place the top halves of the rings on, but do not tighten the screws.
5. Level the Scope Turret. Now, place a small bubble level (like the one from the Wheeler kit) directly on the flat top of the elevation turret housing. Gently rotate the scope in the rings until this level reads perfectly centered.
6. Final Tightening. While carefully maintaining the level on the turret, begin tightening the ring screws. Follow a criss-cross pattern and torque them to the manufacturer’s specification. Re-check the level after each screw is snug to ensure nothing has shifted.

Method 2: The Plumb Line Method (No Special Tools)
This classic method is very effective and requires minimal equipment. It’s great for confirming your work or when you don’t have dedicated levels.

1. Set Up a Plumb Line. Hang a heavy weight (like a bolt or fishing sinker) from a string in front of a blank wall or board. Ensure the weight is not touching the ground and can swing freely to establish a true vertical line.
2. Secure Your Rifle. Place your rifle in a vise or stable rest about 10-15 feet from the plumb line. Use a level to make sure the rifle’s receiver is not canted, just like in Method 1.
3. Adjust the Reticle. Look through the scope at the plumb line. Adjust the zoom to its highest magnification for the clearest view. Now, carefully rotate the scope in the rings until the vertical crosshair perfectly follows the line of the string from top to bottom.
4. Secure and Verify. Once aligned, gently tighten the ring screws while looking through the scope to prevent movement. Do a final check to ensure the crosshair and plumb line are still aligned.

Method 3: The Surface Method (Quick Check)
This is a fast way to get very close, especially useful for rimfire or hunting rifles where extreme precision is slightly less critical than in long-range competition.

1. Find a Flat Surface. Use a known-level surface, like a kitchen counter (checked with a level) or a table saw bed.
2. Position the Rifle. Lay the rifle on its side so the flat part of the receiver or the scope rail is against the flat surface. The rifle’s buttstock and barrel will likely be supported by other objects to keep it stable.
3. Level the Reticle to the Surface. Look through the scope and rotate it until the vertical crosshair appears parallel to the edge of the flat surface below it. Your eye is good at detecting parallels.
4. Tighten and Confirm. Tighten the rings and then double-check with one of the other methods for best results.

Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Not Leveling the Rifle First: This is the number one error. If your action isn’t level, you’re just leveling the scope to a tilted base.
* Overtightening Rings Too Fast: Tightening one screw all the way first can shift the scope. Use a criss-cross pattern and increase torque gradually.
* Relying on the Scope’s External Shape: The outside of the scope body is not always perfectly aligned with the internal reticle. Always level off the turret or use the reticle itself.
* Ignoring Eye Relief: Don’t get so focused on leveling that you forget to set the proper eye relief before final tightening. You should have a full, clear sight picture without any shadowy ring.

Final Verification
After you’ve leveled and mounted your scope, do a final check. With the rifle securely leveled in the vise, look through the scope at a distant, straight vertical edge (like a building corner or telephone pole). The vertical crosshair should track straight up and down that edge as you move the rifle up and down. If it veers off, the scope is still canted and needs adjustment.

Taking the time to properly level your rifle scope might seem like a small detail, but it has a huge impact on performance. It builds confidence in your equipment and eliminates a major source of error. Whether you use a professional kit or a simple plumb line, a level scope is the mark of a careful shooter who understands the fundamentals of accuracy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is a level scope so important?
A canted scope causes your point of impact to drift horizontally as you adjust for elevation or shoot at different distances. The further the target, the greater the error. For consistent long-range shooting, it’s essential.

Can I use a regular bubble level to level my scope?
Yes, you can. Use one level to ensure the rifle’s receiver is flat. Then, use a second small level placed on the elevation turret to level the scope itself. Just make sure the levels are accurate.

My scope has a level built in. Do I still need to do this?
Absolutely. The bubble level attached to your rifle or scope tells you if the whole rifle is level when you’re shooting. It does not ensure that the reticle inside the scope is level relative to the rifle. You must first mechanically level the reticle during mounting.

How often should I check my scope’s level?
You should check it whenever you remount the scope, change rings, or if your rifle suffers a significant impact. It’s also a good idea to verify it periodically, especially if you start noticing unexplained horizontal drift at longer ranges.

Is the plumb line method accurate enough?
For most shooting applications, yes, the plumb line method is very accurate if done carefully. The key is to ensure the rifle itself is not tilted and that you’re viewing the plumb line from a reasonable distance on high magnification. Many competitive shooters rely on this technique.