Getting your rifle scope dialed in is the most important step before any hunt or target session. Learning how to zero rifle scopes ensures your point of aim matches your point of impact. It’s a fundamental skill that builds confidence and accuracy. This guide will walk you through the process in simple, clear steps. You’ll need a safe shooting range, some ammunition, and a bit of patience.
A proper zero accounts for bullet drop over a specific distance. The most common zero distances are 100 yards for centerfire rifles and 50 yards for .22LR rifles. Remember, the goal is to adjust your scope’s crosshairs so the bullet hits where you aim at your chosen distance.
How to Zero Rifle Scopes
Before you fire a single shot, there’s essential prep work. Rushing this stage is a common mistake that leads to frustration and wasted ammo.
Gather Your Gear and Ensure Safety
You’ll need a few key items:
* Your rifle with a securely mounted scope.
* Ammunition (use the same type you plan to hunt or compete with).
* A solid shooting rest, like sandbags or a bipod and rear bag.
* Eye and ear protection.
* A target with a clear, small aiming point.
* A safe, known-distance range.
* A screwdriver or coin for adjusting turret caps.
Always follow the four rules of firearm safety. Point your rifle in a safe direction at all times, especially when making adjustments.
Bore Sighting: The Helpful First Step
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly. It saves time and ammo. You can do it with a laser bore sighter or visually.
For visual bore sighting:
1. Remove the bolt from your rifle (if possible) and secure the firearm in a steady rest.
2. Look directly through the barrel (the bore) and center the target’s bullseye.
3. Without moving the rifle, look through your scope. The crosshairs will likely be off target.
4. Adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the crosshairs are also centered on the same bullseye.
This doesn’t give you a zero, but it should make your first shot land somewhere on the target paper.
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Now for the live-fire process. Follow these numbered steps carefully.
Step 1: The Initial Three-Shot Group
Set up your target at your desired zero distance (e.g., 100 yards). Get into a stable, repeatable shooting position behind the rifle. Take a deep breath, let it out, and squeeze off a careful shot. Don’t worry where it hits.
Fire two more shots with the same careful aim and steady hold. This gives you a three-shot group, which is more reliable than chasing a single shot.
Step 2: Measure and Calculate Adjustments
Go downrange (when the range is cold and safe) or use a spotting scope to see where your group landed. Let’s say your group is 4 inches low and 2 inches to the left of the bullseye.
You need to know your scope’s adjustment value. It’s usually marked on the turret, like “1/4 MOA” or “0.1 MRAD.” This means one click moves the bullet impact a certain amount at 100 yards.
* For a 1/4 MOA scope: 1 click = 1/4 inch at 100 yards.
* To move 4 inches up: 4 ÷ 0.25 = 16 clicks UP on the elevation turret.
* To move 2 inches right: 2 ÷ 0.25 = 8 clicks RIGHT on the windage turret.
Always check your scope’s manual for its specific click value.
Step 3: Make the Adjustments and Shoot Again
Apply the calculated clicks to your turrets. Remember the phrase “Follow the Impact.” If your shot was low, you need to come up. If it was left, you need to go right. So, turn the turrets in the direction marked “UP” and “R.”
Fire another careful three-shot group. This group should be much closer to, or directly on, the bullseye.
Step 4: Confirm and Fine-Tune Your Zero
If the group is centered, you’re almost done. Fire a final three-shot group to confirm the zero is consistent. If it’s a tight group centered on the bullseye, congratulations!
If it’s still slightly off, measure the distance from the center of the new group to the bullseye and make small, final click adjustments. Repeat until satisfied.
Understanding Your Scope’s Turrets
Most modern scopes have exposed turrets you can turn with your fingers. They have a cap that you must unscrew first. The turrets are marked for direction: “Up”/”Down” for elevation and “Left”/”Right” (or “L”/”R”) for windage. You’ll hear and feel a distinct “click” with each adjustment. Always reset your turrets to zero after you’re done by loosening the set screw and aligning the “0” mark—this doesn’t change your zero, it just makes the turret scale useful for future adjustments.
Common Zeroing Mistakes to Avoid
* Unstable Rest: If the rifle is wobbling, you can’t get a consistent group. Use a proper front and rear rest.
* Chasing Single Shots: One flyer can be you, not the rifle. Always use a minimum three-shot group.
* Inconsistent Shoulder Pressure: Mount the rifle the same way for every shot.
* Adjusting the Wrong Turret: Double-check you’re turning the elevation turret for up/down and windage for left/right.
* Forgetting Parallax: If your scope has a side focus or adjustable objective, set it for the distance you’re shooting to avoid parallax error.
What Does a “100-Yard Zero” Really Mean?
A 100-yard zero means your bullet will cross your line of sight twice. It rises to meet the crosshair at 100 yards. But it also means it will be slightly high at intermediate distances, like 50 yards, and then fall below the crosshair past 100 yards. You should learn your cartridge’s trajectory. This knowledge is crucial for making accurate longer shots.
Maintaining Your Zero
Once zeroed, check it periodically. A bump, a change in ammunition, or even loosening mounting screws can shift your zero. It’s good practice to confirm your zero at the start of each hunting season or competition series. Store your rifle properly and avoid impacts to the scope.
FAQ: Zeroing Your Rifle Scope
How many shots does it take to zero a scope?
With good bore sighting, you can often get a solid zero in 9-15 rounds. Without it, it may take 20 or more. The key is patience and using shot groups, not single shots.
Can I zero my rifle at 25 yards?
Yes, especially for rimfire rifles or if you only have short range access. You can use a “25-yard zero” for a 100-yard zero for some cartridges, but you must use a ballistic calculator or specific chart to know the correct holdover. It’s not a direct 1:1 adjustment.
Why is my shot group not tight?
A scattered group (called “shotgun patterning”) is usually a shooter error, not a scope issue. Check your fundamentals: steady rest, consistent cheek weld, smooth trigger pull, and proper breathing. It could also be an issue with the scope mounts being loose.
What’s the difference between MOA and MRAD?
MOA (Minute of Angle) and MRAD (Milliradian) are just different angular units of measurement for adjustments. 1 MOA is about 1 inch at 100 yards. 1 MRAD is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards. Both work fine; just know which one your scope uses so you calculate clicks correctly.
Do I need to re-zero if I change ammo?
Almost certainly. Different bullet weights and brands have different velocities and trajectories. Always re-zero when you switch to a new type of ammunition for reliable results. Its a critical step many hunters overlook.
Mastering how to zero your rifle scope is a rewarding skill. It connects you directly to your equipment’s performance. Take your time, be methodical, and you’ll have a rifle you can trust to hit exactly where you aim. Remember to always prioritize safety and double-check your work before heading into the field.