Getting your shots to hit exactly where you aim starts with knowing how to set rifle scope correctly. It’s the most important skill for any shooter, whether your hunting, target shooting, or just plinking. A scope that isn’t properly zeroed can lead to missed shots and frustration. But don’t worry, the process is straightforward if you follow a clear, step-by-step method. This guide will walk you through everything from mounting the scope to making final adjustments, ensuring you can hit your target with confidence.
First, you need to make sure your scope is mounted solidly to your rifle. A loose mount will ruin your zero and cause inconsistent results. Start by gathering the right tools: a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers or bits, a torque wrench is highly recommended, and the rings and base that match your rifle and scope.
Clean all the mounting surfaces on the rifle’s rail or receiver and the inside of the scope rings. Any oil or debris can cause the scope to shift. Place the bottom halves of the rings onto the base and hand-tighten them just enough so they don’t fall off. Now, carefully lay the scope into the rings, ensuring it’s oriented right-side up. The eyepiece should be at a comfortable distance from your eye when you shoulder the rifle naturally. This is called eye relief, and it’s crucial for safety and a clear sight picture.
Once the scope is positioned, place the top halves of the rings on. Start all the screws by hand to avoid cross-threading. Now, using your torque wrench, tighten the screws gradually and in a crisscross pattern, just like tightening a car tire. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the proper inch-pound specification. Overtightening can damage your scope tube. The scope should be snug and not rotate, but you should still be able to adjust it for eye relief.
How to Set Rifle Scope
With the scope securely mounted, it’s time for the initial bore sighting. This gets you on paper quickly and saves ammunition. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it visually. Secure the rifle in a steady rest, like a shooting vise or sandbags. Remove the bolt if possible on a bolt-action rifle. Look directly down the bore from the breech and center a target at about 25 yards in the barrel. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. The crosshairs will likely be nowhere near that same point.
Here’s where you make your first adjustments. Locate the turret caps on the top and side of the scope. The top turret controls elevation (up and down), and the side turret controls windage (left and right). Remove the caps. You’ll see markings like “UP” and “R” for right. To move the point of impact up, turn the elevation turret in the “UP” direction. To move it right, turn the windage turret in the “R” direction. Make adjustments until the crosshairs are centered on the same point you see when looking down the bore. This gets you close for the live-fire zero.
Live-Fire Zeroing: The Final Step
Bore sighting is just a rough alignment. Now you need to confirm and refine your zero with live ammunition. Go to a safe shooting range. Set up a large target with a clear aiming point at 25 yards. This close distance makes it easy to see your initial impact and make corrections.
Fire a three-shot group from a very stable position, using sandbags or a bipod for support. Aim for the exact center of the target each time. After three shots, go downrange and look at where the group landed. Don’t adjust for a single flyer; look at the center of the group.
Let’s say your group is 4 inches low and 2 inches to the left. You need to move the point of impact up and to the right. Check your scope manual to find the adjustment value, often noted as “¼ MOA per click.” This means one click will move the impact ¼ inch at 100 yards. At 25 yards, that same click moves it ¼ of that, or about 1/16 inch.
To correct our 4-inch low error at 25 yards with a ¼ MOA scope: 4 inches / (0.25 / 4) = 64 clicks up. For the 2-inch left error: 2 inches / (0.25 / 4) = 32 clicks right. Make these adjustments, fire another three-shot group, and repeat until your group is centered on the aiming point at 25 yards.
Moving to Your Final Zero Distance
Once zeroed at 25 yards, move your target to your intended zero distance, like 100 yards. Fire another three-shot group. You should be very close to the bullseye. Make fine adjustments to center the group perfectly at this distance. Remember, the adjustment value is now full strength; one click moves impact ¼ inch at 100 yards. This is your final zero. Write down the number of clicks you made from your starting point for future reference.
Understanding Parallax and Focus
Many scopes have a parallax adjustment, usually a side knob or an adjustable objective lens. Parallax error occurs when the reticle appears to move on the target if you shift your head. To fix it, aim at your target and slowly move your head side to side. If the reticle seems to float over the target, adjust the parallax knob until the reticle stays perfectly still on the aiming point, regardless of your head position. This ensures your aimpoint is precise.
Also, don’t forget to set the diopter on the eyepiece for your eye. Look at a plain background (like the sky), turn the eyepiece ring until the reticle is its sharpest, then lock it if possible. This compensates for your individual vision.
Helpful Tips for Success
* Be Consistent: Use the same ammunition you plan to shoot for your final zero. Different loads shoot to different points.
* Let the Barrel Cool: A hot barrel can “walk” shots to a different point of impact. Shoot slow, allowing time for cooling between groups.
* Check Ring Tightness: After your first range session, double-check the tightness of your ring screws with the torque wrench.
* Record Your Settings: Note your final zero, the ammo used, and any come-ups for longer ranges. A data card taped to your stock is very handy.
FAQ Section
What distance should I zero my rifle scope at?
A 100-yard zero is very common and versatile for many rifles. For close-range hunting in thick woods, a 50-yard zero might be better. For long-range shooting, a 200-yard zero is often used. Choose based on your typical shooting scenario.
Why are my shots still inconsistent after zeroing?
Inconsistency is usually not the scope’s fault. Check your fundamentals: steady rest, consistent cheek weld, and smooth trigger pull. Also, ensure all mounting screws are tight and that your ammunition is of good quality.
How often should I re-check my rifle’s zero?
You should check it at the start of every hunting season or competitive season, and anytime the rifle suffers a significant bump or fall. Its also good practice to verify zero after traveling long distances with a firearm.
What’s the difference between MOA and MRAD scopes?
MOA (Minute of Angle) and MRAD (Milliradian) are just different angular units for adjustment. MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, while 1 MRAD is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards. Both work fine; just know which one your scope uses so you can calculate corrections correctly.
How do I sight in a scope at 50 yards?
The process is identical to the 100-yard method. Simply start at 25 yards to get on paper, then move your target to 50 yards for your final zeroing groups. Remember, your adjustment clicks will have a different effect at this shorter range, so calculate accordingly.
With your scope now properly set, you can head into the field or to the range with full confidence. Remember, taking the time to do this carefully is the foundation of accurate shooting. Regular practice and verifying your zero will keep your skills sharp and your rifle hitting exactly where you aim.