Getting your shots to hit where you aim starts with a solid foundation. Learning how to mount a rifle scope properly is the single most important step in that process. A poorly mounted scope, no matter how expensive, will never hold zero or perform consistently. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing the right base to making final adjustments, ensuring you do it right the first time.
A proper scope mount involves more than just tightening some rings. It’s about precise alignment, correct eye relief, and secure attachment. If you skip steps or take shortcuts, you’ll end up frustrated at the range. Let’s get your optic ready for action.
How to Mount a Rifle Scope Properly
Before you touch a screwdriver, you need to gather the right tools and components. Using incorrect or low-quality parts is a common mistake that leads to failure.
What You’ll Need:
* A quality scope base and rings matched to your rifle and scope tube diameter (e.g., 1-inch or 30mm).
* A gunsmithing torque screwdriver (inch-pounds, not foot-pounds).
* Gun-specific degreaser.
* Thread-locking compound (like Loctite Blue 242).
* A bubble level or leveling kit.
* A clean, stable work surface.
First, ensure your rifle is completely unloaded. Remove the bolt if possible to make the rifle safer and easier to handle on the bench. Clean all the mounting screw holes on the receiver with degreaser to remove any oil or debris. This allows the thread locker to adhere and prevents screws from loosening over time.
Step 1: Installing the Scope Base
Start by attaching the base to your rifle’s receiver. Apply a small drop of thread locker to the base screws. Carefully thread each screw in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Then, using your torque screwdriver, tighten the screws to the manufacturer’s specification. This is usually between 15-65 inch-pounds, but always check your base’s manual. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern, like lug nuts on a car wheel, to ensure even pressure.
Step 2: Setting Eye Relief and Preliminary Placement
Eye relief is the distance your eye must be from the scope to see the full sight picture. This is critical for safety and comfort. To find it, shoulder the rifle in your normal shooting position with the scope sitting loosely in the rings on the base. Slide the scope forward or backward until you see a full, clear image without any dark shadowy rings. Have a friend mark the position on the scope tube with a pencil. This rough placement guides your next steps.
Step 3: Leveling the Rifle and Scope
This step ensures your reticle is perfectly vertical, which is essential for accurate windage and elevation adjustments. Place your rifle in a solid vise or rest, using protective padding. Use a bubble level on a flat part of the rifle, like the receiver rail or a flat part of the action, to get the rifle itself perfectly level. Now, place the bottom halves of the scope rings on the base and set the scope in them.
Here’s the trick: Before tightening the rings, you must level the scope to the rifle. You can use a leveling kit, which are small tools that hang off the eyepiece, or a small bubble level placed directly on the flat top of the elevation turret (the dial on top). Adjust the scope until the scope’s level matches the rifle’s level. This can take a few tries to get just right.
Step 4: Securing the Scope Rings
Once the scope is level and positioned for correct eye relief, it’s time to secure the top halves of the rings. Place the top halves on and start all screws finger-tight. Now, follow a specific tightening sequence with your torque screwdriver. Usually, you’ll start with the front ring, tightening the screws diagonally (e.g., front-left, then front-right) to about half the final torque. Then, do the same for the rear ring. Go back and repeat the sequence, bringing all screws up to the final recommended torque, which is typically between 15-25 inch-pounds for ring screws. Over-tightening can crush the scope tube.
Step 5: Final Checks and Bore Sighting
After everything is tight, perform a final check. Re-shoulder the rifle to confirm eye relief is still correct. Look through the scope and move your head slightly up/down and left/right. If the reticle appears to move relative to the target (parallax error at short range), the scope is not aligned correctly in the rings—you may need to shim or use different rings. This is called a “box test.”
For a rough alignment before live fire, you can bore sight. Secure the rifle safely, remove the bolt, and look directly down the bore, centering a target object. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s windage and elevation turrets until the reticle is centered on that same object. This gets you on paper at 25 or 50 yards, saving time and ammo.
Common Mounting Mistakes to Avoid
Even with careful instructions, its easy to make errors. Here are the big ones to watch for:
* Using the wrong ring height: This causes poor cheek weld and can force you to lift your head off the stock. Rings that are to low might also let the objective bell touch the rifle barrel.
* Overtightening screws: This is the #1 cause of damaged scopes and stripped screws. A torque driver is not a suggestion.
* Skipping the leveling process: A canted reticle causes accuracy errors that get worse with distance.
* Forgetting thread locker: Vibration from shooting will eventually loosen screws without it.
Taking Your Newly Mounted Scope to the Range
Your scope is mounted, but the job isn’t finished until you zero it. Start at a close target, like 25 yards, to get a solid impact on paper. Fire a three-shot group, then adjust your windage and elevation dials to move the reticle to the point of impact. Remember, the adjustments move the point of impact, not the reticle. Once zeroed at 25, move out to your desired zero distance (like 100 yards) and repeat the process. Confirm your zero by firing a few more groups and make fine adjustments as needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How tight should scope ring screws be?
Always follow the scope and ring manufacturer’s specifications, which are given in inch-pounds (in-lbs). A general range is 15-25 in-lbs for the ring caps. The base screws to the rifle will be tighter. Never guess—use a torque screwdriver.
Do I really need a torque wrench for scopes?
Yes, it’s highly recommended. It prevents damage from over-tightening and ensures even, consistent pressure that won’t loosen under recoil. It’s a one-time investment that protects your much larger investment in the scope and rifle.
What is scope ring lapping, and do I need it?
Lapping is the process of smoothing and aligning the inside of the scope rings so they form a perfect, uniform circle that matches the scope tube. For high-quality, matched rings on a flat base, it’s often not necessary. However, for maximum consistency and to avoid putting stress on the scope tube, lapping can be beneficial, especially with less expensive rings or on a curved receiver.
Can I mount a scope myself, or should I pay a gunsmith?
With the right tools and careful attention to these steps, most shooters can successfully mount a scope themselves. The key is patience and not rushing. If you lack the tools or are uncomfortable, a gunsmith can do it quickly for a reasonable fee.
Why won’t my scope hold zero after mounting?
This is often a direct result of improper mounting. Check that all screws are properly torqued with thread locker. Ensure the rings are the correct size and height and that the scope is not moving under recoil. Also, check that the base is securely attached to the receiver.
Mounting a scope correctly takes a bit of time and the right tools, but the payoff is immense. You’ll have confidence in your equipment, knowing that any shot that misses is due to shooter error, not a wobbly optic. Take your time, double-check each step, and you’ll build a solid platform for accurate shooting for seasons to come. Now, go get it zeroed.