Getting your air rifle to shoot exactly where you aim is a fundamental skill. Learning how to adjust a scope on an air rifle is the key to achieving that perfect zero. It might seem a bit technical at first, but with a methodical approach, you can master it and gain huge confidence in your shooting. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from setup to fine-tuning, in simple, clear steps.
First, let’s talk safety. Always treat your air rifle as if it’s loaded. Before you start adjusting anything, ensure the rifle is unloaded, the magazine or pellet probe is removed, and the air cylinder is degassed if possible. Work in a safe direction, preferably with a proper backstop. Now, with safety covered, we can begin the real work.
How to Adjust a Scope on an Air Rifle
Before you touch those adjustment turrets, you need a solid foundation. A scope that moves on the rifle will make accurate adjustments impossible. So, mounting comes first.
Mounting the Scope Correctly
Start by placing the scope rings on the rifle’s rail. Don’t fully tighten them yet—you need to slide the scope into the rings. Position the scope so you have a full, clear field of view when you shoulder the rifle naturally. This is called eye relief. You should see a perfect circle without any dark edges (shadowing). Once it’s in the right spot, begin tightening the ring screws.
Use a torque screwdriver if you can. Tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern, like tightening a car tire, to ensure even pressure. Overtightening can damage the scope tube, while under-tightening will cause it to slip. Getting this step right is half the battle.
Understanding the Turrets
Look at the top and side of your scope. You’ll see knobs with caps, often labeled. The knob on top adjusts for elevation (up and down). The knob on the side adjusts for windage (left and right). They usually have a dial that clicks with each adjustment. Each click moves the point of impact a specific distance at 100 yards (or meters), like ¼ inch. Check your scope’s manual to know your click value. Most airgun scopes use ¼ MOA clicks.
Remember to remove the protective caps before adjusting. Also, some scopes have a parallax adjustment knob, usually on the side or objective bell. This helps focus the reticle and target at the same plane, reducing aiming error. Set it to your shooting distance for the best accuracy.
Preparing to Zero Your Scope
You’ll need a few things: a solid bench rest or sandbags, your chosen pellets, a target, and a safe shooting range at a known distance. For most air rifles, starting at 20 yards is perfect.
1. Set Up Your Target. Place a large target with a clear aiming point. A grid-style target is excellent because it shows exactly where your pellets hit.
2. Take a Stable Position. Use the bench rest to support the rifle, not your arms. You want to eliminate as much human error as possible.
3. Fire Your First Group. Aim carefully at the bullseye and fire three to five shots. Take your time between shots, letting the rifle settle. This is called a “group.”
Don’t worry where the first shot lands. We’re interested in the center of that group of shots.
The Step-by-Step Adjustment Process
Now, analyze your group. Let’s say your shots are grouping 2 inches low and 1 inch to the left of the bullseye. Here’s what you do:
1. Make Initial Adjustments. Leave the rifle supported. Look at your elevation turret (up/down). To move the impact up 2 inches, you need to adjust in the opposite direction. Turn the turret in the direction marked ‘UP’ or ‘U’. If each click is ¼ inch at 100 yards, at 20 yards it’s 1/5 of that. You’d need more clicks. A simpler method: adjust to move the crosshair toward your group. To come up 2 inches, you actually turn the dial toward the “down” direction? Wait, that’s a common confusion point. Let’s clarify.
The Golden Rule: Turn the turret in the direction you want the point of impact to move. If shots are hitting low, you want to move them up. So, turn the elevation turret “UP.” If shots are hitting left, you want to move them right. So, turn the windage turret “R.”
2. Fire Another Group. After making your calculated adjustments, fire another 3-5 shot group. Don’t chase single shots; always adjust based on a group.
3. Fine-Tune. The second group should be much closer. Now, make smaller adjustments. Maybe just 4-8 clicks at a time. Fire another group.
4. Confirm Your Zero. When the center of your group is consistently on or very near the bullseye, you’re zeroed. Fire one final group to confirm. If it holds, you’re done!
Common Problems and Solutions
Sometimes, things don’t go smoothly. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
* Inconsistent Groups: If your shots are scattered, not in a tight cluster, the scope isn’t the problem. Check your shooting fundamentals (breath control, trigger squeeze). Also, try a different pellet. Air rifles can be very picky about their ammo.
* Adjustments Seem Backwards: Double-check you’re turning the turret the correct way. Remember: “Follow the shot.” If the hole is high, you need to bring the crosshair up to it, which means turning the turret “DOWN.”
* Running Out of Adjustment: If you’ve turned a turret many, many times and still aren’t on target, the scope might not be mounted level. You may need to shim the scope rings or use an adjustable mount. This is often called using a “cant” or something like that. It’s best to seek help from a knowledgeable shooter if this happens.
* Changing Distances: Your 20-yard zero will not be perfect at 40 yards. You’ll need to learn your pellet’s trajectory. Many shooters create a “cheat sheet” for holdover at different ranges.
Maintaining Your Zero
Once you’ve got it, you want to keep it. Always store your rifle properly. Avoid banging the scope turrets. It’s a good idea to check your zero occasionally, especially if the rifle has had a bump or before an important shooting session. Also, remember that spring-piston air rifles have a unique two-direction recoil that can loosen scopes made for firearms. Always use airgun-rated scope mounts to prevent “scope creep,” where the scope slowly slides backward under recoil.
FAQ Section
How many shots does it take to zero an air rifle scope?
It typically takes 15-30 shots, depending on your starting point and how steady you are. Patience is key. Rushing will just waste pellets.
What distance should I zero my air rifle at?
For general purpose shooting, 20 to 30 yards is a great starting point for most air rifles. Hunters might choose a distance that matches their typical engagement range, like 35 yards.
Why are my groups still large after zeroing?
This is likely not a zeroing issue. Causes include: poor shooting technique, inconsistent hold, unsuitable pellets, a loose scope mount, or even a problem with the rifle itself. Focus on shooting consistent groups before worrying about where they land.
Can I use any scope on an air rifle?
It’s strongly recommended to use a scope designed for air rifles, especially on spring-piston models. The unique recoil can destroy scopes built only for firearms or rimfires. Always check the manufacturer’s specifications.
How do I adjust for wind?
Windage adjustments at the turret are for zeroing. For wind during shooting, you learn to “hold off,” meaning you aim into the wind slightly instead of adjusting the dial. Experienced shooters might use the marks on their reticle to estimate hold.
Mastering scope adjustment turns your air rifle from a noisy toy into a precise tool. It takes practice, but the satisfaction of hitting exactly what you aim at is worth every minute. Grab your rifle, follow these steps, and you’ll be zeroed in no time. Remember, safety first, and always double-check your work.