Choosing the right optic can feel overwhelming. This guide will show you how to select a rifle scope by breaking down the key features you need to consider. Whether you’re hunting, target shooting, or defending your home, the right scope makes all the difference.
We’ll walk through the most important specs. You’ll learn about magnification, lens quality, reticles, and durability. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to look for on the box and online.
How To Select A Rifle Scope
This process starts with understanding your primary use. A scope perfect for long-range target shooting is often wrong for a dense forest hunt. Ask yourself where and how you’ll use the rifle most.
Define Your Primary Use Case
Your main activity dictates the scope’s core features. Here are the common categories:
- Big Game Hunting: You need a scope that works in low light at dawn and dusk. Look for a larger objective lens (around 44mm or bigger) and a simple, uncluttered reticle. Variable magnification like 3-9x is a classic for good reason.
- Long-Range Precision/Target Shooting: High magnification (up to 25x or more), a first focal plane reticle, and a precise, tactical turret system for adjustments are critical. Weight is less of a concern here.
- Varmint/Small Game Hunting: You’ll want higher magnification to see small targets clearly, but often at shorter ranges. A scope with a wide field of view can help you track fast-moving animals.
- Tactical/Defense: Durability and speed are key. Lower fixed power (1-4x) or a low-power variable optic (LPVO) with an illuminated reticle allows for fast target acquisition at close to medium ranges.
Understand Magnification Ranges
Magnification is shown as two numbers (e.g., 3-9×40). The first numbers (3-9x) are the zoom range. The last number (40) is the objective lens diameter in millimeters.
- Fixed Power: Like 4x or 10x. These are simple, reliable, and often more affordable. They are less versatile but excellent for a specific, known distance.
- Variable Power: Like 3-9x or 5-25x. This gives you flexibility. You can zoom in for a precise shot or zoom out for a wider view. Most modern shooters prefer variable scopes.
- Rule of Thumb: For most big-game hunting in mixed terrain, a 3-9x or 4-12x scope is a fantastic starting point. For open country, consider starting at 4-16x.
Objective Lens Size and Light Gathering
The objective lens is the front lens. A larger lens (like 50mm vs. 32mm) gathers more light, giving you a brighter image in low-light conditions. But there’s a trade-off.
- Larger lenses make the scope heavier and require higher mounting rings.
- For most hunting where you shoot in daylight, a 40mm or 44mm objective is a great balance of performance and size.
- Ultra-low-light hunters might step up to a 50mm or 56mm lens, but premium glass quality is often more important than sheer size.
Glass Quality and Coatings
This is where price really matters. High-quality glass with multi-coatings provides a sharper, brighter, and clearer image with better color fidelity. It reduces glare and increases light transmission. If your budget allows, prioritize better glass over extreme magnification.
Choose a Reticle Type
The reticle is the crosshair or aiming pattern inside the scope. The two main types are defined by their placement in the optics.
- Second Focal Plane (SFP): The reticle stays the same size as you zoom. The hash marks for holdover are only accurate at one magnification (usually the highest). These are common and user-friendly.
- First Focal Plane (FFP): The reticle grows and shrinks as you zoom. The holdover marks are accurate at any magnification. This is preferred for long-range and tactical shooting where you need to range or adjust at unknown distances.
Also decide on the reticle style: simple duplex, mil-dot, BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator), or illuminated. Start simple if your new.
Adjustment Turrets: MOA vs. MRAD
Turrets are the knobs on top and side for adjusting windage and elevation. They move your point of impact.
- MOA (Minute of Angle): 1 MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards. It’s a imperial measurement system familiar to many American shooters.
- MRAD (Milliradian): 1 MIL is 3.6 inches at 100 yards. It’s a metric-based system often used in tactical and long-range circles.
- Which to Choose? Both work. The key is to match your reticle’s measurement system to your turrets (MIL/MIL or MOA/MOA). Choose one system and stick with it for all your gear to avoid confusion.
Durability and Construction
Your scope must withstand recoil and the elements. Look for these features:
- Fogproof & Waterproof: Nitrogen or argon purging prevents internal fogging. Look for a rating like “waterproof to 3 feet.”
- Shockproof: The scope can handle your rifle’s recoil shot after shot without losing its zero.
- Tube Diameter: 1-inch tubes are standard. 30mm and 34mm tubes are heavier but allow for more internal adjustment range and are often more robust.
- Warranty: A lifetime, no-questions-asked warranty is a sign of manufacturer confidence.
Mounting It Correctly
A great scope poorly mounted will fail. Don’t skimp here.
- Buy quality rings and a base that match your scope tube size.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to the manufacturer’s specification. Overtightening can damage the scope.
- Ensure the scope is level in the rings and has proper eye relief (the distance your eye needs to be from the ocular lens for a full sight picture). About 3-4 inches is typical.
- Finally, bore sight the rifle, then go to the range to zero it properly.
Setting Your Budget
Scopes range from under $100 to over $3000. As a general rule:
- Budget ($100-$300): You’ll get basic functionality for fair-weather use at short to medium ranges. Manage expectations for glass clarity and durability.
- Mid-Range ($300-$1000): This is the sweet spot for most hunters. You’ll get good glass, reliable turrets, and solid construction from reputable brands.
- Premium ($1000+): Here you get exceptional glass, flawless tracking, ultra-durable construction, and advanced features. The law of diminishing returns applies, but the performance is real.
Remember: Your optic is a long-term investment. It’s often better to buy a mid-range scope that lasts for decades than to replace a cheap one every few years.
FAQ: Common Rifle Scope Questions
What does 4-12×50 mean on a rifle scope?
It means the scope can magnify your target from 4 times to 12 times its normal size. The “50” is the diameter of the front (objective) lens in millimeters, which affects light gathering.
Is a higher magnification scope always better?
No. Higher magnification reduces field of view, amplifies shake, and can make finding a target harder. It also often means a heavier scope and worse low-light performance. Choose magnification based on your typical shooting distance.
What is the best all-around rifle scope magnification?
For a versatile, do-most-things scope on a hunting rifle, a 3-9×40 or 4-12×50 configuration is extremely popular and effective for many situations across North America.
How important is eye relief on a scope?
Very important, especially on high-recoil rifles. Too short of an eye relief can cause “scope eye” – where the scope hits your brow during recoil. Always check the manufacturer’s specified eye relief distance.
Can I mount a scope myself?
Yes, with the right tools (a gun vise, leveling kit, and torque wrench). If you lack these tools or confidence, having a professional gunsmith do it is a wise investment to ensure its done correctly.
Selecting a rifle scope is about matching tool to the task. By focusing on your primary use, understanding the key specifications, and setting a realistic budget, you can make a confident choice. Take your time, look through different models if you can, and invest in a solid mount. With the right scope properly installed, you’ll shoot with more precision and confidence for years to come.