Getting your rifle to shoot where you aim is a fundamental skill, and learning how to adjust scope on rifle is the key. It might seem technical at first, but with a little know-how, you can get your scope dialed in and gain a lot of confidence at the range or in the field.
The process involves two main parts: mounting the scope correctly first, and then making the actual windage and elevation adjustments to zero it. We’ll walk you through both, step by step, so you can get back to shooting accurately.
How to Adjust Scope on Rifle
Before you can adjust your scope, it needs to be securely and properly mounted. A scope that moves in its rings will never hold zero. Start by ensuring you have the right tools, usually a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers or hex keys and a torque wrench is highly recommended.
First, place the scope rings on the base attached to your rifle. Don’t tighten them all the way yet. Carefully set the scope into the bottom halves of the rings. Then, place the top halves on and start threading the screws by hand. This is where you’ll set the eye relief—the distance between your eye and the scope’s ocular lens. With the rifle shouldered in your normal shooting position, move the scope forward or back until you see a full, clear picture without any dark shadowy rings. Once it’s in the right spot, you can begin to tighten the ring screws.
Crucial Mounting Tips:
* Tighten screws in a criss-cross pattern, like lug nuts on a car tire, to apply even pressure.
* Use a torque wrench if possible. Overtightening can damage the scope tube, while undertightening leads to slippage.
* A common torque specification for scope ring screws is 15-20 inch-pounds, but always check your ring manufacturer’s instructions.
Understanding Your Scope’s Adjustments
Once mounted, you need to understand the dials on your scope. They are almost always marked clearly.
* Windage Knob: This controls left and right impact. It’s usually located on the right side of the scope. Turning it in the direction marked “R” or “Right” will move the point of impact to the right.
* Elevation Knob: This controls up and down impact. It’s usually on the top of the scope. Turning it in the direction marked “U” or “Up” will move the point of impact higher.
* Parallax Adjustment: Not all scopes have this, but it’s common on variable-power and long-range optics. It’s often a side knob or an adjustable objective bell. Its job is to eliminate parallax error, which is when the reticle appears to move on the target if you shift your head. Set it to match your shooting distance for the most precise aim.
Each click of these knobs moves the point of impact a specific distance at 100 yards, like 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch. This is noted on the knob itself (e.g., “1/4 MOA”).
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Zeroing is the process of aligning your point of aim with your point of impact. Here’s how to do it safely and effectively.
1. Safety First: Always ensure the rifle is unloaded. Point it in a safe direction. Do this on a proper shooting range with a safe backstop.
2. Bore Sighting (Optional but Helpful): This gets you on paper quickly. Secure the rifle in a steady rest. Remove the bolt (if possible) and look directly down the bore, centering a target at 25-50 yards. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s crosshairs to center on that same target. This rough alignment saves ammo.
3. Fire Your First Group: Set up a target at 25 yards. Using a solid rest like sandbags or a bipod, fire a careful 3-shot group. The goal is consistency in your hold and trigger press.
4. Analyze the Group: Go downrange and see where the group hit. Let’s say it’s 4 inches low and 2 inches to the left of your aiming point.
5. Make the Adjustments: Don’t adjust after every single shot. Use the group’s center. If your scope adjusts in 1/4 MOA clicks, at 25 yards, each click is worth roughly 1/4 of what it is at 100 yards. So a 1/4 MOA click moves impact about 1/16 inch at 25 yards. To move 4 inches up at 25 yards, you’d need to come up 64 clicks (4 ÷ 1/16). To move 2 inches right, you’d need 32 clicks right. Make these adjustments on your knobs.
6. Fire a Confirmation Group: Shoot another 3-shot group. It should be much closer to center. Make finer adjustments as needed.
7. Move to Final Distance: Once zeroed at 25 yards, move your target to your desired zero range, like 100 yards. The bullet’s trajectory means you’ll need to make more adjustments here. Fire another group and adjust using the scope’s stated click value (now at full value for 100 yards). Repeat until your point of aim matches point of impact.
Fine-Tuning and Final Checks
After you’ve achieved a good zero, there’s a few final steps. First, if your scope has a zero-stop or a resettable turret, now is the time to set it. This allows you to easily return to your zero after making long-range elevation adjustments.
Second, double-check all the mounting screws on the rings and base with your torque wrench after firing 20-30 rounds. Sometimes they can settle and need a final snugging. This is a step many people forget about.
Finally, understand your trajectory. A 100-yard zero means the bullet will hit a bit high at closer ranges and will drop significantly at longer ranges. Use a ballistic calculator or a chart to learn your holds for different distances.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with careful steps, errors can happen. Here are some pitfalls.
* Canting the Rifle: If you tilt the rifle left or right while shooting, your adjustments will be off. Keep the crosshairs level.
* Chasing a Single Shot: Always adjust based on a group’s center. A single flyer could be you, not the rifle.
* Inconsistent Shouldering: Your cheek weld and how you shoulder the rifle must be the same for every shot, or your point of impact will shift.
* Forgetting Parallax: At higher magnifications, not setting the parallax can cause aiming error that looks like a scope problem.
Maintaining Your Zero
A zero can shift for various reasons. Always check it if you bump your rifle hard, travel with it, or change ammunition brands or bullet weights. Seasonal changes can even effect it slightly. It’s a good habit to confirm your zero at the start of a hunting season or a competitive match.
Storing your rifle properly and handling your scope without banging the turrets on doorways will help it maintain zero for a long time. With practice, the whole process of how to adjust scope on rifle becomes quick and routine.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How many shots does it take to zero a rifle scope?
With good bore sighting, you can often get a solid zero in 10-15 shots. Without it, budget 20-30 rounds to account for initial adjustments and confirmation groups.
What tools do I need to adjust my scope?
You’ll need the correct screwdriver or allen keys for the turret caps and mounting screws. A torque wrench for the mount is highly recommended, and a solid rifle rest is essential for consistency.
Why won’t my scope adjustments move the point of impact?
First, ensure you are turning the knobs in the correct direction and that the caps are unlocked. If it still won’t move, the internal mechanism may be broken, or more commonly, the scope might be slipping in its mounts. Re-torque all mounting screws.
Can I adjust a scope without shooting?
Bore sighting is an initial adjustment without firing, but to achieve a true, reliable zero, you must fire the rifle and adjust based on where the bullets actually hit.
My groups are good but not centered. Is it me or the scope?
If you are shooting tight groups but they’re consistently off-center in one direction, that’s the scope’s zero. If the groups are large and scattered, that’s more likely a shooting fundamentals issue, like flinching or inconsistent hold.