Learning how to read a rifle scope is the first step to becoming a precise and confident shooter. Whether you’re new to hunting or target shooting, understanding your scope’s markings and adjustments is essential. This guide will walk you through the basics in a clear, simple way.
A rifle scope is more than just a magnified tube. It’s a precise optical instrument designed to help you place shots accurately at various distances. At first glance, the numbers, dials, and reticle can seem confusing. But once you know what each part does, it all becomes straightforward. Let’s break it down piece by piece.
How to Read a Rifle Scope
To truly understand how to read a rifle scope, you need to get familiar with its key components. Every scope has three main parts you must know: the magnification settings, the reticle, and the turrets (adjustment dials).
Understanding Scope Specifications: The Numbers
You’ll see numbers like “3-9×40” or “4-12×50” on the scope body. These aren’t random.
* The First Number(s): This indicates magnification. A “3-9×40” is a variable power scope. It can magnify your target from 3 times (3x) up to 9 times (9x) closer than your naked eye sees it. A scope marked “6×40” is fixed power, always at 6x magnification.
* The Last Number: This is the objective lens diameter in millimeters. The “40” in “3-9×40” means the front lens is 40mm wide. A larger lens generally allows more light to enter, providing a brighter image in low-light conditions.
Deciphering the Reticle (The Crosshairs)
The reticle is the aiming pattern you see when you look through the scope. It’s your primary reference point for aiming. There are two main types:
* Simple Duplex: This is the most common. Thick lines on the outside taper to thin lines in the center, forming a cross. The thin intersection point is where you aim.
* Mil-Dot or BDC Reticles: These have additional dots or hash marks along the crosshairs. They are used for estimating range, compensating for bullet drop, or adjusting for wind without turning the turrets. You’ll need to consult your scope’s manual to understand the specific measurements (like MilRadians or MOA) for each mark.
What Do the Dots and Marks Mean?
Those extra markings are a built-in calculator. For example, in a common BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator) reticle, the lower dots correspond to aiming points for longer distances. If you’re zeroed at 100 yards, the first dot down might be for 200 yards, the next for 300, and so on. Learning to use these effectively takes practice with your specific rifle and ammunition.
Reading and Using the Turrets
Turrets are the dials on the top and side of the scope. They adjust the point of impact of your bullet.
* Windage Turret: Usually on the right side. Turning it “clicks” left or right (often marked L/R) to move the bullet impact horizontally.
* Elevation Turret: On the top. Turning it clicks up or down (marked U/D) to move the bullet impact vertically for different ranges.
* The Parallax Adjustment: Found on the side or objective bell on some scopes, especially higher-magnification models. It’s often marked with distance ranges (50m, 100m, ∞). Its job is to eliminate parallax error, where the reticle appears to move on the target if you shift your head. For most hunting scopes under 10x, this isn’t a common feature.
What is MOA or MRAD?
Your turrets will be calibrated in either MOA (Minute of Angle) or MRAD (Milliradian). This is the angular measurement of each “click.”
* 1 MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, 2 inches at 200 yards, etc. So if your scope has 1/4 MOA clicks, one click moves the point of impact about 1/4 inch at 100 yards.
* 1 MRAD is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards, with common clicks being 0.1 MRAD. You don’t need to be a math genius, but you do need to know which system your scope uses to make correct adjustments in the field.
Putting It All Together: A Step-by-Step Process
Let’s walk through a typical scenario of taking a shot at an unknown distance.
1. Set Your Magnification: Choose a power based on your target and environment. Lower power gives a wider field of view for close or moving targets. Higher power lets you see distant targets more clearly.
2. Identify Your Reticle Holdover: Estimate the distance to your target. If it’s farther than your zero distance (e.g., 100 yards), you may need to use a lower dot or hash mark on your BDC reticle instead of the center crosshair. This is called “holdover.”
3. Consider Wind and Adjust: Look at environmental flags like grass or leaves. If there’s a strong crosswind, you might need to “hold” into the wind using the horizontal marks on your reticle, or dial the windage turret if you have time.
4. Take the Shot: Focus on your fundamentals—steady hold, breath control, and a smooth trigger press—while aiming with your chosen reticle point.
Remember, consistency is key. The more you practice these steps at the range, the more intuitive they become.
Zeroing Your Scope: The Essential First Step
Before you can read and use your scope effectively, you must zero it. This means adjusting the turrets so that the point of aim (your crosshair) matches the point of impact (where the bullet hits) at a specific distance, like 100 yards.
* Fire a 3-shot group at a target.
* Locate the center of that group.
* Measure how far it is from your aim point in inches.
* Use your turret’s click value (e.g., 1/4 MOA) to adjust. If you’re 4 inches low at 100 yards with 1/4 MOA clicks, you need 16 clicks “Up” on the elevation turret.
* Repeat until your shots hit where you aim.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Forgetting to Remove Lens Caps: It sounds silly, but it happens more than you’d think.
Confusing Adjustment Directions: Remember, turrets move the point of impact. If your shots are hitting left of the target, you turn the windage turret in the direction marked “R” to move them right.
* Using the Wrong Reticle Mark: Assuming all BDC reticles are the same is a mistake. They are calibrated for specific bullet weights and velocities.
* Over-Magnifying: Too much power can amplify shaky hands and make it harder to find a target quickly. Start on a lower power setting.
With patience and practice, reading your rifle scope will become second nature. Start with the basics of zeroing and understanding your reticle, then gradually learn to use the turrets and holdover marks. Always refer to your scope’s manual for it’s specific features and calibrations.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How do you read a rifle scope for distance?
You use the markings on a mil-dot or BDC reticle. By aligning a known size (like an animal’s chest) between two marks, you can estimate range. Many scopes also have a rangefinder reticle with a built-in scale you compare to your target.
What do the numbers on a scope mean?
The numbers like “4-16×50” describe the magnification range and objective lens size. “4-16x” means it zooms from 4x to 16x power. The “50” is the diameter of the front lens in millimeters, which affects light gathering.
How do you read scope clicks?
Each audible “click” when you turn a turret equals a specific angular adjustment, like 1/4 MOA or 0.1 MRAD. You must know your scope’s click value to calculate how many clicks you need to move your bullet impact a certain distance on the target.
What does 3 9×40 mean on a scope?
It means the scope has a variable magnification from 3 power to 9 power, and it has a 40mm objective lens. It’s a very popular configuration for general hunting and shooting.
Is a higher magnification scope always better?
No, not always. Higher magnification scopes are heavier, have a narrower field of view, and can exaggerate image shake. Choose a magnification range suitable for your primary shooting distances and application. A 3-9x scope is excellent for most big game hunting.