If you’ve just mounted a new optic, you’re probably wondering how do i adjust a rifle scope. Properly adjusting, or zeroing, your scope is the most important step in ensuring your rifle shoots accurately. It’s a straightforward process that any shooter can learn with some basic tools and patience.
This guide will walk you through the entire process from start to finish. We’ll cover the tools you need, the steps to follow at the range, and how to make those final fine-tuned adjustments. By the end, you’ll be able to confidently zero your own rifle.
How Do I Adjust a Rifle Scope
Before you head to the range, you need to set up your scope correctly. This initial setup, called boresighting, gets you on paper and saves a lot of time and ammo.
Gather Your Essential Tools
You’ll need a few items before you start. Having these ready makes the process smooth.
- A solid rifle rest or sandbags. This is non-negotiable for stability.
- The correct size allen wrenches or screwdrivers for your scope’s turrets.
- Your ammunition. Use the same ammo you plan to hunt or shoot with later.
- A target, preferably with a clear bullseye grid.
- A safe shooting range with a known distance (25 or 50 yards is best to start).
- Optional: A boresighting tool can help with the initial alignment.
Mount and Level Your Scope Securely
First, ensure your scope rings are mounted tightly to the rifle’s base. The scope itself should be secure in the rings but not over-tightened. Use a leveling kit or a simple bubble level to make sure the reticle is perfectly vertical. A canted scope will cause your shots to drift as the distance increases.
Initial Boresighting (Getting on Paper)
Boresighting aligns the barrel with the scope. You can do this with a laser tool or visually. For a visual bore sight, safely remove the bolt, look directly down the barrel, and center the target. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s windage and elevation turrets until the crosshair is also centered on that same target. This should get your first shot somewhere on the paper target.
Understanding Your Turrets
Scope turrets are the knobs on top and side. The top knob adjusts elevation (up and down). The side knob adjusts windage (left and right). They usualy have a cap that you must unscrew to make adjustments. Listen for the audible “clicks.” Each click moves the point of impact a specific distance (e.g., ¼ inch) at 100 yards. The direction is often marked with an “Up” arrow or “L” and “R.”
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Now it’s time to fire real shots. Follow these steps carefully.
- Set Up Your Target at a Close Distance. Start at 25 yards. The closer distance makes corrections easier and uses less ammo. The goal here is to get a good 25-yard zero, which often translates to a longer range zero.
- Take Your First Three-Shot Group. From a completely stable rest, fire three shots carefully. Take your time between shots to let the barrel cool. The goal is a tight group, not speed.
- Analyze the Group’s Center. Go downrange and look at where the three holes are. Find the center point of that triangle of holes. This is your current average point of impact.
- Adjust the Elevation Turret. Measure the vertical distance from the group’s center to your bullseye. If your group is 4 inches low, and your scope clicks are ¼” at 100 yards, note that at 25 yards, each click is ¼ of that value. So you’d need to come up 16 clicks. Turn the turret in the “Up” direction.
- Adjust the Windage Turret. Measure the horizontal distance next. If your group is 2 inches left, adjust the windage turret to the “Right” the appropriate number of clicks.
- Fire a Confirmation Group. Fire another three-shot group. The center of this new group should be very close to, or right on, the bullseye.
- Move to Your Final Zero Distance. Once zeroed at 25 yards, move your target to 100 yards. Fire another three-shot group. You will likely need to make smaller final adjustments. A 25-yard zero often puts you a few inches high at 100, which is typical for many rifles.
Making Final Fine-Tuning Adjustments
At 100 yards, make small, deliberate changes. If you’re only an inch off, make only the click adjustments needed for one inch. Avoid chasing shots; always fire a group to confirm. Once your group is centered at your desired distance, your scope is zeroed. Remember to re-tighten any turret caps finger-tight, but don’t overtighten them.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced shooters can make these errors. Being aware of them helps you get a better zero.
- Poor Resting Position: The rifle must rest on the forend, not the barrel. Inconsistent shoulder pressure can also shift the group.
- Chasing a Single Shot: Never adjust your scope based on one shot. Always use a minimum three-shot group to account for shooter error and ammo variation.
- Inconsistent Cheek Weld: Your head must be in the same position on the stock for every shot. A different sight picture each time will cause vertical stringing.
- Forgetting Parallax: If your scope has a side focus or adjustable objective, set it for the distance you’re shooting. An uncorrected parallax error can make the reticle appear to move on the target.
Confirming and Maintaining Your Zero
A zero can shift. Always confirm your zero before an important hunting trip or competition. Check that all mounting screws are snug (but not stripped) periodically. Changes in ammunition brand or bullet weight will also require a new zero. It’s a good habit to keep a log book of your zero settings and the ammo used.
FAQ Section
How many shots does it take to zero a rifle scope?
With good boresighting, you can often get a solid zero in 10-15 shots. Without it, you might use 20-30 rounds while finding the paper and making adjustments.
What distance should I zero my rifle at?
For most hunting rifles, a 100-yard zero is standard. For .22LR rifles or close-range setups, a 50-yard zero is common. Some long-range shooters use a 200-yard zero. Starting at 25 yards is just a stepping stone to get there efficiently.
Why are my shot groups inconsistent?
Inconsistency is rarely the scope’s fault. It’s usually caused by the shooter, a loose scope mount, an unstable rest, or inconsistent ammunition. Focus on your fundamentals and ensure everything is tight before blaming the optic. Also, a hot barrel can walk shots, so let it cool.
How do I adjust for windage?
Windage is adjusted using the horizontal turret on the side of your scope. If your shots are hitting to the left of the target, turn the turret in the direction marked “R” for right. This moves the point of impact to the right. Remember to use your group’s center, not a single flyer.
My turrets aren’t moving the point of impact. What’s wrong?
First, ensure you’ve removed the protective cap from the turret. Second, verify you are turning the turret in the correct direction—sometimes the arrows can be confusing. Third, check that your scope rings are not pinching the turret housing, preventing it from turning. If problems persist, the scope may have an issue.
Learning to adjust your rifle scope is a fundamental skill. It builds confidence in your equipment and your own abilities. Take your time, be methodical, and you’ll have a accurately zeroed rifle ready for any task. Remember to always practice safe firearm handling throughout the entire process.