Getting your shots to hit exactly where you aim is a fundamental skill for any shooter. Learning how to adjust a scope on a rifle is the first step to achieving that precision. It might seem technical, but with the right method and a bit of patience, you can zero your scope yourself. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from setup to final confirmation, in clear, simple steps.
You’ll need a few things before you start: your rifle and scope, the correct size tools (usually Allen wrenches or screwdrivers), a stable shooting rest like sandbags or a bipod, and of course, ammunition. Always ensure your firearm is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction during initial handling. A spotting scope or binoculars are also very helpful for seeing your shot placement from a distance.
How to Adjust a Scope on a Rifle
The core of sighting-in involves using the adjustment turrets on your scope. These are the knobs, usually covered by caps, on the top and side. The top turret adjusts for elevation (up and down), and the side turret adjusts for windage (left and right). Each click of the turret moves the point of impact a specific distance at 100 yards, which is called the “click value.” This is noted in your scope’s manual, with common values being 1/4 MOA or 1/2 MOA per click.
Preparing Your Rifle and Scope
First, make sure your scope is mounted correctly and securely. Loose rings are a common cause of accuracy problems. All mounting screws should be tightened to the manufacturer’s specification using a torque wrench if possible. Next, you need to set your eye relief. This is the distance between your eye and the scope’s ocular lens when you have a full field of view. Position the scope so you can see clearly without any dark shadowy rings, and tighten the rings just enough to hold it in place for now.
Before live firing, you can perform a rough bore sight. Secure your rifle in a rest so it cannot move. Remove the bolt if it’s a bolt-action rifle, and look directly down the bore, centering a target at about 25 yards. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s crosshairs to point at the exact same spot on the target. This gets you on paper and saves ammunition.
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Now you’re ready for live fire. Always follow all safety rules and shoot at a proper, safe range.
1. Set Up Your Target. Start at a close distance, like 25 yards. Use a target with a clear, small aiming point. This makes it easier to see your shot holes.
2. Take a Stable Position. Use a solid bench rest and sandbags to support both the rifle’s fore-end and the buttstock. The goal is to eliminate as much human movement as possible.
3. Fire Your First Group. Aim carefully at the center of your target and fire a three-shot group. Take your time between shots to let the barrel cool and to maintain consistency.
4. Locate Your Group. After three shots, check your target. If you can’t see the holes, use your spotting scope. Identify the center of the three-shot group.
5. Adjust the Turrets. Here’s the crucial part: To move your point of impact toward your aim point, you turn the turrets in the direction marked “UP” or “R.” For example, if your shots hit low and left, you would turn the elevation turret “UP” and the windage turret “R.” The number of clicks required depends on your group’s distance from the bullseye and your scope’s click value.
6. Fire a Confirmation Group. Fire another three-shot group after making your adjustments. The center of this new group should be much closer to your aim point.
7. Fine-Tune and Move Back. Repeat the process of shooting groups and making small adjustments until you are consistently hitting your aiming point at 25 yards. Once zeroed at 25, move your target to 100 yards. You will need to make further adjustments, but you should still be on the paper. Continue the process until your point of impact matches your point of aim at your desired distance.
Understanding MOA and Adjustment Math
MOA stands for Minute of Angle, which is roughly one inch at 100 yards. If your scope has a 1/4 MOA click value, one click will move the point of impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards, 1/2 inch at 200 yards, and so on. To calculate clicks, measure how far your group is from the bullseye in inches. If you’re 4 inches low at 100 yards with a 1/4 MOA scope, you need 16 clicks up (4 รท 0.25 = 16). Don’t worry, you’ll get the hang of it with practice.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Many shooters rush the process. Let your barrel cool between groups to prevent heat mirage and barrel drift from affecting accuracy. Also, a common mistake is not following through on the trigger pull, which can jerk the rifle. Another frequent error is adjusting the turrets the wrong direction; always remember you are moving the point of impact, not the crosshairs. Also, ensure you are using the correct ammo for your rifle, as different bullet weights can impact differently.
Finally, once you have a perfect zero, note the settings on your turrets. Some shooters mark them with a paint pen. Then, you can replace the turret caps to protect the adjustments. Remember to check your zero periodically, especially if you bump your rifle or travel with it. Scopes can sometimes lose their zero due to hard impacts or loose mounts.
Maintaining Your Zero
A zero isn’t permanent. You should check it at the start of every hunting season or competitive season. Store your rifle properly in a hard case to protect it from knocks. If you change your ammunition type or bullet weight, you will need to re-zero. The zero for 150-grain bullets will likely differ from that of 180-grain bullets. It’s a good habit to keep a logbook of what ammo your rifle is zeroed for and any changes you make.
Using a Laser Boresighter
A laser boresighter can be a helpful tool, especially for an initial rough zero. You insert it into the muzzle or chamber, and it projects a laser dot onto your target. You then adjust your crosshairs to that dot. However, it’s not a replacement for live-fire zeroing. It gets you on paper, but final confirmation with actual ammunition is absolutly essential, as the laser can be slightly off and doesn’t account for recoil or bullet trajectory.
FAQ Section
Which way do I turn my scope to adjust it?
You turn the turrets to move the point of impact. If your shots are hitting to the left of the target, turn the windage turret in the direction marked “R” (right). This will move subsequent shots to the right, toward your aim point. The same logic applies for elevation: turn “UP” to raise your point of impact.
How many shots should I fire before adjusting?
Always fire a group of at least three shots before making any adjustments. A single shot can be a flier due to user error. A three-shot group shows a more reliable pattern and gives you a true center to measure from.
What distance should I zero my rifle at?
The standard distance for zeroing a rifle is 100 yards. This provides a good flat trajectory for many common cartridges. However, the best distance depends on your rifle’s caliber and intended use. For example, a .22LR might be zeroed at 50 yards, while a long-range precision rifle might be zeroed at 200 yards. Check your ammunition’s ballistic data for recommendations.
Why are my shots still inconsistent after adjusting?
If your groups are large and inconsistent (not in a tight cluster), the problem likely isn’t the scope zero. It could be your shooting fundamentals, inconsistent ammunition, a loose scope mount, or even an issue with the rifle’s barrel or action. Go back and check all mounting screws and focus on steady shooting technique before making more adjustments.
With these steps, you can confidently set up your rifle for success. Remember, safety and patience are your most important tools. Take your time, and you’ll have a accurately zeroed rifle ready for the field or the range.