Getting your shots to land where you aim starts with a properly aligned scope. Learning how to align a rifle scope is the fundamental skill every shooter needs for accuracy. It might seem technical, but with patience and the right steps, you can do it yourself. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from mounting to final zeroing, in simple, clear steps.
A misaligned scope leads to frustration, wasted ammunition, and missed opportunities. Whether you’re a hunter, a target shooter, or just getting started, taking the time to align your scope correctly is the most important thing you can do for your rifle’s performance. Let’s get your rifle and scope working together perfectly.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Gathering the right tools makes the job smoother and prevents damage to your equipment. Here’s your checklist:
* A solid rifle vise or shooting bags (essential for stability).
* The correct scope mounting rings and base for your rifle.
* A set of gunsmithing screwdrivers or hex/Allen keys (must fit perfectly to avoid stripping screws).
* A torque wrench (highly recommended for proper screw tension).
* A bubble level or leveling kit.
* Your rifle’s manual (for any specific instructions).
* Bore sighting tool (optional, but very helpful).
Step 1: Mounting the Base and Rings
First, ensure your rifle is unloaded and the action is open. Start by attaching the base to the receiver of your rifle using the provided screws. Apply a small drop of thread-locker to the screws, unless your manual advises against it. Use your torque wrench to tighten them to the manufacturer’s specification—over-tightening is a common mistake that can damage the threads.
Next, attach the bottom halves of the rings to the base. Don’t fully tighten them yet; you just want them snug enough to stay in place. This allows for some adjustment later when you level the scope.
Step 2: Leveling the Rifle and Scope
This critical step prevents cant, which causes horizontal drift at longer distances. Place your rifle securely in the vise or on bags. Use a small bubble level on a flat part of the rifle’s receiver or rail to get the rifle itself perfectly level. Once the rifle is level, lock it in place.
Now, place the scope into the bottom ring halves. Loosely set the top halves of the rings over the scope. Before tightening anything, you need to level the scope’s reticle to the rifle. Here’s the best method:
1. Adjust the windage and elevation turrets to their mechanical center (check your scope manual for how many clicks this usually is).
2. Look through the scope and rotate it until the vertical crosshair appears to align with the center of the bore. A bore-sighter can help here, or simply use your eye to get it close.
3. Place a small bubble level across the flat top of the elevation turret cap. Adjust the scope until this level reads true, while ensuring the rifle’s level is also still true.
How to Align a Rifle Scope
This is the core alignment process, often called “boresighting.” It gets your rifle and scope roughly aligned before live fire, saving you time and ammo.
Step 3: The Boresighting Process
Boresighting gets you on paper at 25 or 50 yards. You can use a laser boresighter inserted into the muzzle or chamber, or use the old-school visual method:
1. Remove the bolt from your rifle (for bolt-actions).
2. Securely set up your rifle on bags, aiming at a target 25 yards away.
3. Look directly through the barrel (the bore) and center a target in the barrel’s opening.
4. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. The crosshairs will be pointing somewhere else.
5. Adjust the windage and elevation turrets on your scope until the crosshairs are centered on the same point you see through the barrel.
If using a laser tool, the process is similar: center the laser dot on a target, then adjust the scope’s crosshairs to match that dot. Remember, boresighting is not zeroing; it’s just a starting point.
Step 4: Final Tightening and Torquing
With the scope leveled and boresighted, it’s time to secure everything. Follow this sequence to avoid putting stress on the scope tube, which can cause tracking errors:
1. Gradually tighten the ring screws in a criss-cross pattern, like tightening a car tire.
2. Use your torque wrench to bring each screw up to the manufacturer’s recommended inch-pound setting (usually between 15-25 in-lbs for the ring screws). This is not guesswork—proper torque is vital.
3. Double-check your level one final time after tightening, as things can shift slightly.
Step 5: Live-Fire Zeroing (The Proof)
Now you take your pre-aligned rifle to the range. This is where you confirm and perfect the alignment with real shots.
1. Set up a target at 25 yards. Fire a careful, supported 3-shot group.
2. The group will show you where your bullets are hitting relative to your crosshairs. Adjust your windage and elevation knobs to move the crosshairs toward the point of impact. (Remember: “Follow the bullet.” If shots are low and left, adjust up and right).
3. Once you’re centered at 25 yards, move your target out to your desired zero distance (like 100 yards). Fire another 3-shot group.
4. Make your final adjustments at this distance. When your point of aim matches your point of impact, your scope is perfectly aligned and zeroed.
Always fire multiple groups to confirm your zero is consistent. Changes in your hold, ammunition, or even the rifle’s temperature can affect things.
Step 6: Final Checks and Record Keeping
After zeroing, make a few final checks. Ensure all turret caps are secure. Mark your zero position on the turrets if they have a reference scale. Most importantly, write down your zero information: date, ammunition type, distance, and any environmental notes. This record is invaluable if you ever change components or need to re-check your zero.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Overtightening Screws: This is the number one cause of damaged equipment. Use a torque wrench.
* Ignoring Level: A canted scope causes increasing error with distance.
* Rushing the Process: Alignment takes time. Don’t hurry the leveling or boresighting steps.
* Forgetting Parallax: At longer ranges, adjust your scope’s side focus or parallax knob to eliminate reticle movement relative to the target.
* Not Confirming Zero: A single 3-shot group isn’t a confirmed zero. Shoot multiple groups to be sure.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I check my scope’s alignment?
You should check your zero at the start of every hunting season or competitive season, and anytime your rifle suffers a significant bump or fall. Its also good practice if you haven’t used it in several months.
Can I align a scope without a bore sighter?
Absolutely. The visual bore-sighting method (looking through the barrel) works very well for getting on paper at short range. It just requires a steady setup and a good eye.
Why are my shots still inconsistent after aligning the scope?
Inconsistency after a good alignment points to other factors. Check your ammunition quality, your shooting fundamentals (breath control, trigger pull), and the rifle’s bedding. The scope itself could also have a mechanical issue if it’s failing to track properly.
What’s the difference between aligning and zeroing a scope?
Aligning refers to the physical mounting, leveling, and initial boresighting of the scope on the rifle. Zeroing is the final live-fire process of adjusting the scope’s reticle so that it matches the bullet’s point of impact at a specific distance. Alignment comes first, then zeroing.
Properly aligning your rifle scope is a methodical process that pays off every time you squeeze the trigger. By following these steps, using the right tools, and avoiding common pitfalls, you’ll build a solid foundation for accuracy. Remember, a well-aligned scope inspires confidence, letting you focus on the shot, not on wondering if your equipment is working against you. Now, with your scope aligned, you’re ready to hit the range with purpose.