Choosing the right rifle scope can feel overwhelming. This guide will walk you through how to choose a rifle scope that fits your specific needs and budget. Whether you’re a new hunter or an experienced marksman, the right optic makes all the difference in accuracy and confidence.
A rifle scope is more than just a tube with glass; it’s a critical tool that extends your effective range and improves precision. With so many options on the market, from magnification ranges to reticle types, knowing where to start is key. We’ll break down the essential features in simple terms, so you can make an informed decision without getting lost in technical jargon.
How to Choose a Rifle Scope
The process of selecting a scope involves matching its specifications to your primary shooting activity. A scope perfect for long-range target shooting is often a poor choice for hunting in thick brush. By focusing on a few core components, you can narrow down the field significantly.
1. Define Your Primary Use
First, ask yourself what you’ll be doing most with the rifle. The intended use is the single biggest factor guiding your choice.
* Big Game Hunting: Typically requires variable magnification (e.g., 3-9x or 4-12x), durable construction, and a simple, uncluttered reticle for quick shots. Weight and light transmission are crucial for dawn and dusk.
* Varmint / Predator Hunting: Often benefits from higher magnification (e.g., 6-24x) for precise shot placement at longer distances on smaller animals. Illuminated reticles can be helpful in low light.
* Long-Range Target / Precision Shooting: Demands high magnification, precise and repeatable adjustment turrets, a first or second focal plane reticle with holdover marks, and exceptional optical clarity.
* Tactical / Defense: Usually features a lower magnification range (1-6x or 1-8x), an illuminated reticle for speed, and extremely rugged build quality.
* Plinking & General Use: A versatile mid-range variable scope (2-7x or 3-9x) offers great flexibility without breaking the bank.
2. Understanding Magnification: Fixed vs. Variable
Magnification is how much closer the target appears. It’s written as two numbers, like 3-9×40. The first numbers (3-9x) are the magnification range. The last number (40) is the objective lens diameter in millimeters.
* Fixed Power (e.g., 4x, 6x): Simple, reliable, and often lighter and less expensive. They offer a single magnification setting. While less common today, they are still excellent for specific, consistent ranges.
* Variable Power (e.g., 3-9x, 4-16x): Offers flexibility. You can zoom in for a precise shot or zoom out for a wider field of view. This is the most popular choice for modern hunters and shooters. Remember, higher magnification isn’t always better—it can amplify shake and narrow your field of view.
3. Objective Lens Size and Light Performance
The objective lens is the one at the front of the scope. Its diameter (in mm) affects light gathering.
* Larger Objective Lens (e.g., 44mm, 50mm): Gathers more light, providing a brighter image in low-light conditions like dawn or dusk. However, it requires higher mounting rings and adds weight.
* Smaller Objective Lens (e.g., 40mm, 32mm): Allows for lower, more stable mounting on the rifle. Often lighter and more streamlined. For most daytime hunting, a 40mm or 42mm objective provides excellent performance without bulk.
The quality of the lens coatings is just as important as size. Look for terms like “fully multi-coated” for the best light transmission, glare reduction, and a clear, sharp image.
Exit Pupil: The Brightness Gauge
A quick way to gauge low-light brightness is to calculate the exit pupil. Divide the objective lens diameter by the magnification. For example, a 3-9×40 scope at 9x has an exit pupil of 40/9 ≈ 4.4mm. A larger exit pupil (over 4mm) is easier for your eye to use in low light. At 3x, the same scope has a 13.3mm exit pupil, which is very bright.
4. Reticle Selection: The Aiming Point
The reticle is the crosshair or pattern you see when you look through the scope. Choosing one is partly personal preference and partly application.
* Standard Duplex: The classic, simple crosshair that thickens toward the edges. It’s uncluttered, fast to use, and great for big game hunting at varied ranges.
* Mil-Dot / BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator): These reticles have additional marks below the center crosshair. They are designed to help you aim at different distances without manually adjusting the turrets. BDC reticles are calibrated for specific cartridges and bullet weights.
* Illuminated Reticles: The crosshair lights up (usually red or green). This is invaluable in very low light or against dark backgrounds. Ensure it has multiple brightness settings.
* First Focal Plane (FFP) vs. Second Focal Plane (SFP): This is critical for tactical and long-range use.
* SFP: The reticle size stays the same as you zoom. Holdover marks (like BDC) are only accurate at one specific magnification (usually the highest).
FFP: The reticle grows or shrinks with magnification. The holdover marks are accurate at any magnification. FFP scopes are generally more expensive.
5. Adjustment Turrets: For Windage and Elevation
Turrets are the knobs on the top and side of the scope used to adjust the point of impact.
* Capped Turrets: The adjustment knobs have protective caps. Common on hunting scopes where you “zero” the rifle (sight it in) and then leave the settings alone. They prevent accidental bumps.
* Exposed / Tactical Turrets: These are larger, uncapped knobs with audible and tactile “clicks” for each adjustment. They are meant to be turned frequently for long-range shooting, where you dial for different distances. They often have a zero-stop feature to easily return to your original zero.
6. Tube Diameter: 1 inch vs. 30mm
This is the diameter of the main scope body.
* 1 Inch: The traditional standard. Offers a vast selection of mounting rings and is often found on value-priced and classic hunting scopes.
* 30mm: Becoming the new standard for mid to high-end optics. It allows for more internal adjustment range and can be more robust. You will need 30mm-specific rings.
* 34mm / 35mm: Found on high-end long-range and tactical scopes, offering maximum internal travel for extreme elevation adjustments.
7. Parallax Adjustment
Parallax error occurs when the target image and the reticle are not on the same focal plane, causing the reticle to appear to move on the target if you shift your head. This can affect accuracy, especially at higher magnifications.
* Fixed Parallax: Most hunting scopes are set at the factory, usually for 100 yards. This is fine for most big game hunting scenarios.
* Adjustable Parallax: Features a side or objective bell knob to adjust for parallax at specific distances. Crucial for precision shooting and varmint hunting at varied ranges. It is often marked in yards.
8. Eye Relief and Field of View
* Eye Relief: This is the distance your eye must be from the rear ocular lens to see the full image. It’s critical for safety, especially on high-recoil rifles. A scope with generous eye relief (3.5-4 inches) protects you from “scope eye” – a nasty cut from the scope hitting your brow during recoil.
* Field of View (FOV): This is the width of the area you can see through the scope at a specific distance, usually measured in feet at 100 yards. Lower magnification gives a wider FOV, making it easier to track moving targets or scan an area.
9. Build Quality: Durability and Warranty
Your scope must withstand recoil, weather, and the occasional bump. Look for:
* Nitrogen Purging & O-ring Sealing: For waterproof and fogproof performance.
* Construction: A one-piece tube is stronger than a two-piece design.
* Warranty: A lifetime, no-questions-asked warranty is a sign of the manufacturer’s confidence in their product. It’s a critical factor for a long-term investment.
10. Mounting It Correctly
A fantastic scope poorly mounted will never perform. This step is often overlooked.
1. Choose Quality Rings and Bases: Match the ring size to your tube diameter (1″, 30mm, etc.). Invest in solid, brand-name mounts.
2. Use a Torque Wrench: Overtightening can damage the scope tube. Follow manufacturer specifications for ring screw torque (usually in inch-pounds).
3. Level Everything: Ensure the rifle’s action is level, then level the scope reticle to it. A canted reticle causes missed shots at long range.
4. Set Proper Eye Relief: Mount the scope so you have a full sight picture with your head in a natural, comfortable position on the stock.
Putting It All Together: Budget and Brand
Set a realistic budget and stick to it. Remember to factor in the cost of quality mounting rings and bases. In general, you often get what you pay for in optics. Reputable brands with proven track records are usually a safer bet than obscure, ultra-cheap options. It’s better to buy a mid-range scope from a trusted company than a high-magnification “bargain” scope with poor glass and unreliable adjustments.
Your rifle and scope are a system. A precision rifle deserves a quality scope, while a casual plinking rifle might not need the most expensive optic. Balance your needs with your investment.
FAQ Section
What is the best rifle scope magnification for deer hunting?
For most deer hunting situations, a variable scope in the 3-9x or 4-12x range is ideal. It provides enough magnification for a precise shot at longer distances (out to 300+ yards) while allowing for a wide field of view at lower power for shots in thick cover.
How much should I spend on a good rifle scope?
A good starting point is to consider spending at least as much on your scope as you did on your rifle. For serious hunting or shooting, quality optics start in the $300-$500 range, with high-end models reaching several thousand dollars. There are decent entry-level options under $200 for casual use.
What does MOA mean on a rifle scope?
MOA stands for Minute of Angle. It’s an angular measurement used to describe the click value on your adjustment turrets and the subtensions in your reticle. 1 MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards (actually 1.047″). If your scope has 1/4 MOA clicks, each click will move the point of impact about 1/4 inch at 100 yards. Understanding this helps you make precise sight-in adjustments.
Can I mount a scope myself?
Yes, with the right tools. You will need a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers, a torque wrench (inch-pound), and a leveling tool or method. Take your time to ensure the scope is level, has proper eye relief, and the rings are tightened correctly. If your unsure, having a professional gunsmith do it is a wise investment.
What’s more important, scope magnification or objective lens size?
For most hunters, magnification is the more practical consideration. Choose a magnification range that suits your typical shooting distances. Then, within that range, select the model with the best quality glass and coatings you can afford. A 40mm objective with excellent coatings will often outperform a 50mm objective with poor coatings.
How do I sight in my new rifle scope?
Start by bore-sighting to get on paper at close range (25 yards). Then, fire a 3-shot group at 25 yards and adjust your crosshairs to the point of impact. Finally, move to 100 yards (or your desired zero distance), fire another group, and make final adjustments. Always use a solid rest and allow the barrel to cool between groups. Remember to check your zero periodically, especially before a hunting season.
Choosing the right scope is a process of elimination based on your specific needs. By working through these factors—use, magnification, reticle, and budget—you can confidently select an optic that will serve you well for years. A well-chosen scope becomes a seamless extension of your rifle and your skills, helping you make ethical shots and hit your target consistently. Take your time, do your research, and you’ll find the perfect match for your firearm.