Getting your shots to hit exactly where you aim starts with a properly set up optic. Learning how to set a rifle scope is a fundamental skill for any shooter, whether you’re hunting, target shooting, or just plinking. A scope that isn’t correctly mounted and adjusted will lead to frustration and wasted ammunition. This guide will walk you through the process from start to finish, ensuring you have a solid foundation for accuracy.
The entire process relies on a few key principles: secure mounting, correct eye relief, and precise adjustment of the reticle. We’ll break it down into simple, manageable steps. You don’t need to be a master gunsmith to do this well, just a bit of patience and the right tools.
How to Set a Rifle Scope
Before you touch a single screw, you need to gather your equipment. Having everything ready makes the job smoother. You’ll need a quality set of gunsmithing screwdrivers or hex keys that fit your scope ring screws exactly. Using the wrong tool can strip the screws, creating a big headache. You also need a rifle vise or a steady shooting rest, a leveling kit (or a simple bubble level), and of course, your rifle, scope, and mounting rings/base.
Step 1: Mount the Base and Rings
First, ensure your rifle is unloaded. Always double-check this. If your rifle requires a separate base, attach it to the receiver using the manufacturer’s instructions and a dab of thread-locker on the screws. Then, attach the bottom halves of your scope rings to the base. Don’t tighten them all the way yet; leave them loose enough to slide.
Step 2: Set Rough Eye Relief
Eye relief is the distance your eye needs to be from the scope to see a full, clear picture. To find it, shoulder the rifle naturally with your eyes closed. When you open your eyes, you should see the full sight picture without any dark shadows (called scope shadow). Move the scope forward or backward in the rings until this position is comfortable and repeatable. This step is crucial for safety and consistency.
Step 3: Level the Scope
This is one of the most important steps for accuracy at distance. A canted scope will cause your shots to drift horizontally as range increases.
* Place the rifle securely in a vise.
* Use a leveling tool or a small bubble level on a flat part of the rifle’s receiver (like the ejection port flat) to level the rifle itself.
* Then, place a level across the flat top of the scope’s elevation turret (the dial on top). Adjust the scope in the rings until this turret is also level.
* Check and re-check from a few angles. When the rifle is level and the scope turret is level, you’re good to proceed.
Step 4: Secure the Scope
Now, tighten the scope ring screws. Follow a criss-cross, incremental pattern, just like tightening a car tire. Tighten each screw a little bit, then move to the one diagonally opposite. This ensures even pressure and prevents distorting the scope tube. Refer to your ring manufacturer’s torque specifications if you have a torque wrench—over-tightening is a common mistake that can damage your scope.
Step 5: Bore Sighting
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly, saving time and ammo. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it visually.
* Remove the bolt (if possible) or secure the rifle in a vise.
* Look directly down the bore and center a target object about 25 yards away.
* Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. Adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the reticle is centered on that same object.
* Your rifle is now roughly bore-sighted.
The Zeroing Process
Zeroing is where you make your final adjustments using live fire. You’ll need a stable shooting position, a solid backstop, and a target at your desired zero range (like 100 yards).
1. Fire a Three-Shot Group: From a supported position (bags or a bipod), aim at the exact center of your target and fire a group of three shots. Take your time between shots, letting the barrel cool if needed.
2. Analyze the Group: Go downrange or use a spotting scope to see where your group landed. Let’s say the group is 4 inches low and 2 inches to the left of your aim point.
3. Adjust the Turrets: Look at the caps on your adjustment turrets. They will say something like “1/4 MOA” or “1/4″ @ 100 yds.” This means one click of adjustment will move the point of impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards. To move your impact up 4 inches, you’d need 16 clicks (4 ÷ 0.25 = 16). Turn the elevation turret in the “UP” direction 16 clicks. To move impact right 2 inches, turn the windage turret “RIGHT” 8 clicks.
4. Fire Another Group: Fire a new three-shot group. It should be much closer to center.
5. Fine-Tune: Make smaller click adjustments based on the new group. Repeat this process until the center of your group matches your point of aim.
Understanding Parallax and Focus
Many scopes have a side or objective focus knob, often marked with ranges. Parallax error occurs when the reticle appears to move on the target if you shift your head. To minimize it, adjust this knob until the target image is crisp and the reticle does not seem to float when you move your head slightly. A proper focus makes precise shooting easier, especially at longer distances.
Final Checks and Tips
After zeroing, it’s a good habit to confirm your zero with a final shot or two. Also, consider marking your turret’s zero position with a paint pen or tape so you can easily return to it if you dial for different ranges. Always store your rifle properly and avoid banging the scope on hard surfaces. Over time, you should periodically check that the ring screws are still tight, as vibration can sometimes loosen them. A quick check before a hunting trip or competition is always wise.
Frequently Asked Questions
What tools do I need to mount a rifle scope?
At a minimum, you need the correctly sized screwdrivers or allen wrenches for your rings and base. A torque wrench is highly recommended to avoid over-tightening. A rifle vise and leveling tools are also very helpful for a precise job.
How often should I check my scope’s zero?
You should check it whenever you suspect an impact, before a major hunting trip, or at the start of a competitive season. Otherwise, a check once or twice a year is sufficient for most rifles used regularly. Ammo changes also require a new zero.
Why are my shots still inconsistent after zeroing?
Inconsistency can be caused by many factors beyond scope setup. Check your shooting fundamentals first—trigger control, breathing, and follow-through. Also, ensure all mounting screws are tight. The problem could also be with the ammunition or even the rifle’s barrel.
What does MOA mean on my scope turrets?
MOA stands for Minute of Angle. It’s an angular measurement. For simplicity, 1 MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, 2 inches at 200 yards, and so on. So a scope that adjusts in “1/4 MOA per click” moves the point of impact about 1/4 inch at 100 yards per click.
Can I mount a scope myself, or should I pay a professional?
With careful attention to detail and the right tools, most people can successfully mount and zero their own scope. It’s a valuable skill to learn. However, if you are unsure or dealing with a very expensive setup, having a professional do the initial mounting is a reasonable choice. The zeroing process you can still do yourself at the range.