Getting your shots to hit where you aim starts with a proper setup. Learning how to set up rifle scope correctly is the most important step for any shooter, new or experienced. A scope that isn’t aligned and adjusted for you will cause frustration and wasted ammunition. This guide will walk you through the entire process in simple, clear steps.
Think of scope setup as a foundation. You can have the best rifle and most expensive scope, but if the foundation is shaky, your accuracy will be to. We’ll cover mounting, leveling, boresighting, and the final zeroing process. Follow these steps, and you’ll build the confidence that your equipment is working with you, not against you.
How to Set Up Rifle Scope
Before you touch a single tool, gather everything you need. This prevents mid-process headaches. You’ll need a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers or bits (hollow ground are best), a torque wrench (highly recommended), the scope rings and base, a leveling kit or a simple bubble level, and a clean workspace.
Mounting the Base and Rings
First, ensure your rifle is unloaded. Always double-check this. Then, attach the base to the receiver using the provided screws. A tiny drop of blue Loctite (242) on the threads is a good idea to prevent screws from loosening under recoil. Use your torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer’s specification—over-tightening can damage your rifle.
Next, attach the bottom halves of the rings to the base. Don’t install the top halves yet. Place the scope in the bottom rings, then set the top halves in place. Finger-tighten the screws just enough to hold the scope, but leave it loose enough to adjust.
Leveling and Aligning the Scope
This step is critical for consistent accuracy at different distances. A canted scope will cause your shots to drift horizontally as range increases.
1. Secure the Rifle: Use a vise with padded jaws or a steady rest to hold the rifle perfectly level. A bipod can work in a pinch.
2. Level the Rifle: Place a small bubble level on a flat part of the rifle, like the rail or the flat top of the receiver. Adjust the rifle in the vise until it is perfectly level.
3. Level the Scope: Now, place a level across the flat top of the elevation turret (the dial on top). Without disturbing the rifle’s level, carefully rotate the scope in the rings until the scope’s level also reads perfectly level.
4. Finalize Alignment: While holding the scope level, begin to alternately tighten the ring screws in a criss-cross pattern, just like tightening a car tire. Go slowly, checking the level frequently. The goal is to reach the proper torque without letting the scope rotate.
Setting Eye Relief and Proper Sight Picture
Eye relief is the distance your eye needs to be from the scope to see the full picture. Getting this right prevents “scope eye” – a nasty cut from recoil.
1. Shoulder the Rifle: Get into your normal, comfortable shooting position.
2. Close Your Eyes: With the scope loose enough to slide, close your eyes and shoulder the rifle.
3. Open and Adjust: Open your eyes. You should see a full, clear circle of view (the “field of view”) without any black shadowy rings. If you don’t, slide the scope forward or backward in the rings until you do.
4. Mark and Tighten: Once you find the perfect spot, make a small pencil mark on the scope tube at the edge of the ring for reference. Now, complete the final tightening of all ring screws to the specified torque with your wrench. This is where a torque wrench really pays for itself by preventing damage to the delicate scope tube.
The Boresighting Process
Boresighting gets you on paper quickly, saving time and ammo at the range. There are laser boresighters or the traditional method.
Laser Method: Insert a laser boresighter into the muzzle (or chamber adapter) and turn it on. At a short distance (25 yards is fine), look through the scope and adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the crosshair is centered on the laser dot.
Manual Method: Remove the bolt. Look directly down the bore from the breech end and center a target or a distinct object at 25-50 yards. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. Adjust the turrets until the crosshair is centered on that same object.
Zeroing Your Rifle at the Range
This is where you finalize the setup with live fire. You’ll need a solid rest, a target, and your ammunition.
1. Start Close: Set up a large target at 25 yards. Fire a careful, three-shot group.
2. Measure and Adjust: See where the group hit relative to your point of aim. Use the turrets to adjust. Remember: “Up” on the turret moves point of impact up. “Right” moves impact right. Most scopes have a specified value per “click” (e.g., ¼ MOA).
3. Move to Distance: Once zeroed at 25 yards, move to your desired zero distance (like 100 yards). Fire another three-shot group.
4. Final Adjustments: Make your final adjustments to center the group at this distance. Fire a confirming group to ensure it’s consistent.
Final Checks and Maintenance
After zeroing, it’s wise to do a box test or tracking test to verify your scope’s adjustments are accurate. Also, consider putting a witness mark on your turrets with a paint pen so you can quickly see if they’ve been moved.
Remember to keep a record of your zero settings and the ammunition you used. Store your rifle properly and periodically check the tightness of the base and ring screws, especially after the first few range trips.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I check my scope’s zero?
You should check it at the start of a new shooting season, if you drop your rifle, or after traveling over rough terrain. It’s a good habit to confirm zero every few hundred rounds.
What tools do I absolutly need for scope mounting?
At minimum, proper fitting screwdrivers and a bubble level. For a reliable, damage-free setup, investing in a torque wrench and gun vise is highly recommended.
Can I mount a scope myself, or should I pay a gunsmith?
With patience, the right tools, and by following these steps, most shooters can successfully mount their own scope. If you are unsure or lack the tools, a gunsmith can do it for a reasonable fee.
What does “eye box” mean?
The eye box is the three-dimensional space behind the scope where you eye can be and still see a full sight picture. Scopes with a generous eye box are more forgiving of head position.
Why is my scope still not accurate after zeroing?
Common issues include a loose mount, improper cheek weld, inconsistent shooting fundamentals, or a parallax issue. Double-check all your mounting screws first. Also, ensure you are using quality, consistent ammunition for best results.