Learning how to sight in a rifle scope is a fundamental skill for any shooter. It’s the process of aligning your scope’s point of aim with your rifle’s point of impact, and doing it correctly builds confidence for hunting or target shooting. This guide will walk you through a simple, reliable method to get your rifle hitting where you look, even if your a complete beginner.
The goal is to get your rifle and scope talking the same language. A properly sighted-in scope means that when you place the crosshairs on a target, the bullet strikes exactly where you intend. Without this, even the best rifle and ammunition will be frustratingly inaccurate. Let’s gather what you’ll need and get started.
How To Sight In A Rifle Scope
Before you fire a single shot, proper setup is crucial. Rushing this stage is a common mistake that leads to wasted time and ammo.
What You’ll Need:
* Your rifle with the scope securely mounted
* The correct ammunition (use what you plan to shoot regularly)
* A solid shooting rest (bags, bipod, or bench rest)
* A target (store-bought sight-in targets or a large sheet with a clear aiming point)
* A safe shooting range with a known distance
* A screwdriver or the specific tools for your scope’s adjustment caps
* Patience and a methodical approach
Step 1: Secure the Rifle and Scope
First, ensure your scope rings and base are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications. A loose scope will never hold zero. When shouldering the rifle, you should see a full, clear picture through the scope without moving your head—this is called proper eye relief. The reticle should be level; a canted scope will cause horizontal drift.
Step 2: Bore Sighting (The Preliminary Alignment)
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly and saves ammunition. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it manually. Unload the rifle and remove the bolt. Look directly down the bore from the breech and center the target in the barrel. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. The crosshairs will likely be off target. Adjust the windage (left/right) and elevation (up/down) knobs until the crosshairs are centered on the same point you see through the bore. This gets you close before live firing.
The Live-Fire Sighting Process
For most rifles, starting at 25 yards is the best practice. It minimizes environmental effects and makes misses easy to correct.
1. Set Up Your Target: Place a large target with a distinct bullseye at 25 yards. Make sure your shooting position is stable and supported.
2. Take Your First Shot: Aim carefully at the exact center of the bullseye. Fire a single, controlled shot. This is your reference point.
3. Analyze the Impact: Go downrange and see where the bullet actually hit. Don’t adjust the crosshairs to where the hole is. Instead, note how far off it is from your aiming point. For example, the hole might be 4 inches low and 2 inches left.
4. Make the Adjustments: Here’s the key part. Scope adjustments are typically marked in Minutes of Angle (MOA). At 25 yards, 1 MOA is roughly ¼ inch. If your shot was 4 inches low, you need to come up 4 inches. That’s 16 clicks on a ¼ MOA scope (4 ÷ 0.25 = 16). Turn the elevation knob in the “UP” direction 16 clicks. If it was 2 inches left, you need to move right 2 inches. That’s 8 clicks on the windage knob in the “RIGHT” direction.
5. Fire a Confirmation Group: Fire another shot. It should be much closer to the bullseye. Fire a group of three shots to confirm consistency. Adjust further if needed until the group’s center is at your aiming point.
Moving Out to Your Final Zero Distance
Once you’re dead-on at 25 yards, you can move to your desired zero range, like 100 yards. The bullet’s trajectory means you’ll already be close.
1. Move your target to 100 yards.
2. Aim at the bullseye and fire a three-shot group.
3. Measure the center of that group relative to your aim point. The adjustments will be smaller now. At 100 yards, 1 MOA equals about 1 inch. Use your scope’s knobs to shift the point of impact to your desired zero. A common zero is 1-2 inches high at 100 yards for a flat-shooting cartridge.
4. Fire a final three-shot group to confirm your zero. When the center of this group is where you want it, your rifle is sighted in.
Understanding Scope Adjustments and Tracking
It’s easy to get confused by the adjustment knobs. Remember this simple rule: Follow the bullet. If your shots are hitting low, you need to adjust the elevation up. Turn the knob in the “UP” direction. If shots are hitting left, adjust the windage right. You are moving the point of impact toward your point of aim.
Always track your clicks. Some scopes have a zero-stop or reset feature, but keeping a mental note helps. After making large adjustments, its a good idea to tap the turret lightly to settle the internal mechanism. Consistency in your shooting fundamentals is vital during this process; any error you introduce will be reflected in the zero.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Inconsistent Shoulder Pressure: Don’t hold the rifle differently from shot to shot.
* Snatching the Trigger: A smooth, surprise break is essential for accuracy.
* Adjusting After Every Shot: Always fire a group (3-5 shots) to account for shooter error and rifle consistency.
* Using a Dirty or Hot Barrel: A fouled barrel or an overheated one can change point of impact. Let the barrel cool between groups.
* Forgetting Parallax: If your scope has a side focus or adjustable objective, set it for the distance you’re shooting to avoid parallax error.
Final Checks and Record Keeping
Once you’re satisfied, you can finalize your zero. Some shooters prefer to lock their adjustment caps if provided. A final confirmation group at your zero distance is always a good idea. Most importantly, write down your zero information. Note the date, rifle, scope, ammunition brand and load, and the distance. Environmental changes or a bumped scope might require a re-check, and this record is your starting point.
FAQ: Your Sighting-In Questions Answered
What distance should I zero my rifle at?
It depends on your cartridge and purpose. For many big-game hunters using common calibers like .308 or .30-06, a 200-yard zero is popular. For .22 LR or close-range woods hunting, a 50-yard zero might be best. Research your specific cartridge’s trajectory.
Why do I need to start at 25 yards?
Starting at 25 yards guarantees you’ll hit the target paper, making initial corrections easy and cheap. It also removes variables like wind, which can complicate the process at longer ranges right away.
How often should I re-check my zero?
You should check it at the start of every hunting season, after traveling long distances, or if you accidently bump the scope hard. Ammunition lot changes can also effect point of impact slightly.
What if my adjustments aren’t moving the point of impact correctly?
This could indicate a mounting issue, a faulty scope, or significant shooter error. Double-check all ring screws and base screws. Have a friend shoot it to rule out shooter inconsistency. If problems persist, the scope mechanics may need inspection.
Can I sight in without a shooting rest?
While possible, it’s not recommended. Unsupported shooting introduces human error, making it difficult to distinguish your mistakes from the rifle’s true zero. A solid rest is key for a precise sight-in.
Sighting in your rifle is a systematic task that rewards patience. By following these steps, you’ll ensure your equipment is performing as it should, giving you the confidence to make an ethical shot when it counts. Remember, a well-zeroed rifle is the foundation of responsible shooting. Now get out there, be safe, and enjoy the results of your work.