If you’ve ever looked through a telescope and wished you could share that view, you need to learn how to take photos through a telescope. This process, called afocal or eyepiece projection photography, lets you capture the moon, planets, and even deep-sky objects.
It’s easier than you might think to get started. With some basic equipment and patience, you can begin recording your astronomical observations. This guide will walk you through the main methods, from simple smartphone shots to dedicated camera setups.
How To Take Photos Through A Telescope
There are several ways to take photos through a telescope, each with its own advantages. The method you choose depends on your budget, your goals, and what you want to photograph. Let’s break down the most common techniques.
Essential Equipment You’ll Need
Before you start, it’s helpful to understand the basic gear. Your telescope is the most important piece, of course. A stable mount is absolutely critical—even more than the telescope itself—for sharp photos.
You’ll also need some way to connect a camera. This could be a simple adapter or a specialized camera. Here’s a quick list of the core components:
- Telescope: Any type can work, but some are better for photography. Refractors often provide sharp views with little maintenance.
- Mount: An equatorial mount that tracks the stars is ideal for long exposures. A sturdy alt-azimuth mount can work for the moon and planets.
- Camera: This can range from your smartphone to a dedicated astronomy camera.
- Adapters: These bridge the gap between your camera and the telescope’s focuser.
- Software: For stacking and processing your images later on a computer.
Method 1: Smartphone Astrophotography
This is the easiest and most affordable way to begin. Almost everyone has a smartphone, making it a perfect starting point. You’ll take a photo by holding your phone’s camera lens up to the telescope eyepiece.
The key challenge is alignment and stability. Your hands will shake, making the image blurry. A smartphone adapter mount is a game-changer. It clamps your phone securely over the eyepiece.
Step-by-Step Smartphone Setup:
- Insert your chosen eyepiece into the telescope.
- Manually focus the telescope on a bright object like the moon or a planet.
- Attach the smartphone adapter to the eyepiece, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Secure your phone into the adapter. Center the phone’s camera lens over the eyepiece.
- Open your camera app. Use manual mode if available, setting ISO and shutter speed yourself.
- Tap the screen to focus, then use the telescope’s focuser for final fine-tuning.
- Use a timer or voice command to trigger the shutter without touching the phone.
Tips for Better Smartphone Shots
Start with the moon. It’s bright and easy to find. Use your phone’s built-in editing tools to adjust contrast and sharpness. For planets, try taking a video instead of a single photo. Special apps can then stack the best video frames to create a sharper image.
Method 2: Using a DSLR or Mirrorless Camera
For more serious work, a DSLR or mirrorless camera offers greater control. You can attach these cameras directly to the telescope, using it as a giant telephoto lens. This method is called prime focus photography.
You’ll need a T-ring specific to your camera brand and a T-adapter that fits your telescope’s focuser. These connect together to form a secure link. The telescope’s optics then become the camera lens.
Prime Focus Setup Guide:
- Remove the camera’s lens and attach the T-ring (it looks like a bayonet lens mount).
- Remove the eyepiece from your telescope’s focuser.
- Insert the T-adapter into the focuser, just like an eyepiece.
- Connect the T-ring on your camera to the T-adapter. The setup is now complete.
- Turn on your camera’s live view function. This helps with focusing.
- Point your telescope at a bright star. Carefully adjust the telescope’s focuser until the star is the smallest, sharpest point of light you can achieve.
Camera Settings for Prime Focus
Use manual mode. Set your ISO between 800 and 3200 to start. For deep-sky objects like nebulae, you’ll need long exposures of 30 seconds to several minutes, requiring a tracking mount. For the moon, a fast shutter speed like 1/250th of a second works well. Always shoot in RAW format for more editing flexibility later.
Method 3: Dedicated Astronomy Cameras
These are specialized cameras designed solely for telescope use. They come in two main types: planetary cameras and deep-sky cameras. They connect directly to a computer via USB and are controlled by software.
Planetary cameras are like high-speed webcams. They take very short, rapid-fire videos to “freeze” atmospheric turbulence. Deep-sky cameras are cooled to reduce electronic noise during long exposures. They are the best tool for capturing faint galaxies.
Getting Started with a Dedicated Camera:
- Install the camera’s software on your laptop.
- Remove the telescope’s eyepiece and insert the camera into the focuser.
- Connect the camera to your laptop with the USB cable.
- Use the software to frame and focus your target. The software often has tools like a Bahtinov mask aid to achieve perfect focus.
- For planets, record a video file. For deep-sky, set the software to take a series of long-exposure still images called “subs.”
Understanding Image Stacking and Processing
Single astrophotos are often noisy and lack detail. The secret to those stunning images you see online is stacking. This means combining dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of individual frames to improve signal and reduce noise.
Free software like RegiStax (for planets) or DeepSkyStacker (for deep-sky) does this mathematically. After stacking, you’ll process the image in a program like GIMP or Adobe Photoshop to adjust levels, curves, and saturation.
Basic Processing Workflow:
- Stack: Align and combine all your frames in stacking software.
- Stretch: Adjust the histogram to reveal faint details hidden in the data.
- Color Balance: Correct the color to represent the object naturally (or as commonly depicted).
- Sharpen: Apply careful sharpening to enhance fine details without creating artifacts.
- Reduce Noise: Use noise reduction tools to smooth out the final image’s background.
Choosing Your First Targets
Start with bright, easy-to-find objects. This builds your skills and confidence. The moon is the perfect first target. Its craters and mountains provide stunning detail even with basic equipment.
After the moon, try Jupiter and Saturn. They are bright and show recognizable features like Jupiter’s bands and Saturn’s rings. Once you’ve mastered planets, move on to brighter deep-sky objects like the Orion Nebula or the Andromeda Galaxy.
Target Difficulty Guide
- Beginner: The Moon, Jupiter, Saturn, bright star clusters (e.g., Pleiades).
- Intermediate: Brighter nebulae (Orion, Lagoon), the Andromeda Galaxy, Mars.
- Advanced: Faint galaxies, dim nebulae, detailed planetary imaging.
Common Challenges and Solutions
You will encounter problems—everyone does. The most common issue is vibration. Even pressing the shutter button can shake the telescope. Use a remote shutter release or your camera’s built-in timer.
Finding focus is tricky in the dark. A Bahtinov mask is an inexpensive tool that creates a diffraction pattern, making perfect focus obvious. Dew is another enemy. Moisture can form on your telescope’s lens or corrector plate. Use a dew heater strap to keep the optics clear.
Light pollution washes out faint objects. While you can’t always travel to dark skies, light pollution filters can help from suburban locations. They screw onto your camera adapter or eyepiece.
Maintaining Your Gear for Clear Shots
Keep your optics clean, but clean them rarely and carefully. Dust on the lens has less impact than you think. Fingerprints, however, are bad. Use a rocket blower first to remove loose dust. For stubborn spots, use lens cleaning fluid and microfiber cloth designed for optics.
Store your equipment in a dry, temperature-stable place. Silica gel packs in your case help control moisture. Regularly check that all screws on your mount and rings are tight, but don’t overtighten them.
Planning Your Imaging Session
Success starts before dark. Use planetarium software or apps like Stellarium to see what will be visible from your location and when. Check the weather forecast, not just for clouds but for atmospheric stability (“seeing”) and transparency.
Set up your equipment before it gets completely dark. This makes it easier to polar align your mount and get organized. Have a plan: decide on one or two primary targets for the night to avoid wasting time.
FAQ Section
Can I use any telescope for astrophotography?
Most telescopes can be used, but some perform better than others. Long focal length telescopes are great for planets, while short focal length, fast telescopes are better for wide-field deep-sky objects. The mount’s stability is the most critical factor overall.
What is the cheapest way to start taking pictures with my telescope?
The cheapest method is using your smartphone with a universal adapter clamp. This lets you capture the moon and planets for a minimal investment. It’s a fantastic way to learn the basics before spending more money.
Why are my photos of planets just a bright blob?
This is usually caused by overexposure. Planets are much brighter than you think. Use very fast shutter speeds (like 1/100th sec or faster) and low ISO settings. For smartphones, tap the screen on the planet and slide your finger down to reduce the exposure.
Do I need a tracking mount?
For the moon and planets using short exposures, a simple mount can work. For deep-sky objects requiring exposures longer than a few seconds, a motorized equatorial mount that tracks the stars is essential to prevent star trailing in your images.
How do I focus the camera on the telescope?
It’s easiest to focus on a bright star or the moon first. Use your camera’s live view at maximum magnification. Adjust the telescope’s focuser slowly until the object is as small and sharp as possible. A Bahtinov mask makes this process much simpler and more accurate.
What software do I need for astrophotography?
You’ll need capture software (like SharpCap or ASIStudio for dedicated cameras), stacking software (RegiStax, DeepSkyStacker, Autostakkert), and processing software (GIMP, Photoshop, PixInsight). Many of these have free versions or trials to get you started.
Taking photos through a telescope is a rewarding skill that combines art and science. It requires patience and practice, but the results are worth it. Start simple, learn one step at a time, and soon you’ll be capturing your own unique views of the universe. Remember to also just look through the eyepiece sometimes and enjoy the live view with your own eyes.