Getting your shots to hit exactly where you aim is the first step to becoming a better marksman. This guide will show you how to zero a rifle scope the right way. It’s a fundamental skill that every shooter needs to master, whether you’re hunting, target shooting, or preparing for competition. A properly zeroed scope builds confidence and ensures your rifle performs as it should.
Think of zeroing as aligning the crosshairs of your scope with the point of impact of your bullet at a specific distance. When they match, you’re zeroed. It might seem tricky at first, but by following a clear process, you can get it done safely and efficiently.
How to Zero a Rifle Scope
Before you head to the range, you need to gather the right gear and understand some basics. Rushing the process leads to frustration and wasted ammunition. Let’s get you prepared.
Essential Gear You’ll Need:
* Your rifle with a securely mounted scope.
* The correct ammunition you plan to use regularly.
* A solid rest like sandbags, a bipod, or a shooting bag. A bench rest is ideal.
* Eye and ear protection.
* A target with a clearly visible aiming point.
* A screwdriver or the specific tool for your scope’s adjustment caps.
* A notebook and pen to record your adjustments.
* Patience. You’ll need plenty of it.
Choosing Your Zero Distance:
The distance at which you zero is a personal choice based on your rifle and its purpose. A common starting point for many rifles is 100 yards. For rimfire rifles or those used in dense woods, 50 yards might be better. Some modern cartridges are often zeroed at 200 yards. Do a little research on what’s recommended for your specific setup.
Understanding MOA or MRAD:
Your scope’s turrets adjust in either Minutes of Angle (MOA) or Milliradians (MRAD). It’s crucial to know which you have. In simple terms, one MOA is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards. So, if you need to move your point of impact 2 inches to the right at 100 yards, you’d adjust 2 MOA right. MRAD uses a metric system. Don’t worry, you just need to know what the clicks on your scope mean. Most scopes have 1/4 MOA or 0.1 MRAD clicks.
Pre-Zero Preparation: Bore Sighting
Bore sighting gets you on paper before you fire a shot. It saves time and ammo. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it manually.
Manual Bore Sighting:
1. Remove the bolt from your rifle so you can look straight down the barrel.
2. Secure the rifle absolutely solid in your rest, pointing at a target 25-50 yards away.
3. Looking through the barrel, center the target’s bullseye in the bore.
4. Without moving the rifle, look through your scope. The crosshairs will likely be nowhere near the bullseye.
5. Using the turrets, adjust the windage (left/right) and elevation (up/down) until the crosshairs are centered on the same bullseye you see in the bore.
5. This gets you close. You’re now ready for live fire.
The Live Fire Zero Process: Step-by-Step
Now for the main event. Always follow the four fundamental rules of firearm safety.
Step 1: The First Three-Shot Group
Set up your target at your chosen distance (we’ll use 100 yards as the example). Get into a steady, repeatable position behind the rifle. Take a deep breath, exhale halfway, and squeeze the trigger smoothly. Fire three careful shots. This is your first group. The goal is to see where these three shots land relative to your aiming point.
Step 2: Analyze and Adjust
Go downrange and look at your target. Find the center of your three-shot group. Measure how far this center is from your aiming bullseye, both horizontally and vertically. For example, let’s say the group is 4 inches low and 2 inches to the left.
Since we’re at 100 yards and have a 1/4 MOA scope, the math is simple. Each click moves the impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards.
* To move 4 inches up, you need 16 clicks up (4 ÷ 0.25 = 16).
* To move 2 inches right, you need 8 clicks right (2 ÷ 0.25 = 8).
Make those adjustments on your turrets. Remember: “Follow the shot.” If your group is low, you need to come up. If it’s left, you need to go right.
Step 3: Confirm with a Second Group
Fire another three-shot group. This group should be much closer to, or directly on, the bullseye. If it’s centered, congratulations! If it’s still off, measure the new error and make finer adjustments. Maybe it’s now just 1 inch high and half an inch left. Adjust accordingly (4 clicks down, 2 clicks right in our example).
Step 4: Final Confirmation
Once your adjustments bring the crosshairs to the point of impact, it’s time for a final confirmation. Fire a final three- to five-shot group. This group should be nicely centered around your aiming point. This is your zero. Write down the number of clicks from your starting point or, even better, note the turret readings if they have a zero-stop or index.
Fine-Tuning for Different Situations
A 100-yard zero is a great standard, but your work might be tweaked for specific needs.
The 50-Yard Zero for Rimfire and Airguns:
The process is identical, but the scale changes. At 50 yards, a 1/4 MOA click moves impact 1/8 of an inch. So you’ll need to double the number of clicks to achieve the same point of impact movement compared to 100 yards. It’s often easier to just shoot and adjust based on the measurements you see.
Accounting for Bullet Drop at Longer Ranges:
For hunting or long-range shooting, understanding your bullet’s trajectory is key. With a 100-yard zero, your bullet will hit higher at intermediate distances before falling back down. Many shooters use a 200-yard zero for flat-shooting cartridges, as it means less hold-over at common hunting ranges. You can use ballistic calculators or apps to understand this curve.
Common Zeroing Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced shooters can make errors. Here’s what to watch out for:
* A Poor Rest: Inconsistency is the enemy. If the rifle wobbles in the rest, your groups will be large and misleading.
* Chasing Single Shots: Never adjust your scope based on one shot. Always use a minimum of three-shot groups to account for your own human error.
* Mixing Ammunition: Different brands or bullet weights fly differently. Zero with the exact ammo you plan to use.
* Loose Scope Mounts: Ensure all rings and base screws are properly torqued. A shifting scope makes a zero meaningless.
* Forgetting Parallax: If your scope has a parallax adjustment, set it for the distance you’re shooting. Parallax error can make your crosshairs appear to be in a different place on the target.
Maintaining Your Zero
Your zero can shift over time. It’s good practice to check it periodically.
* Check it at the start of a new hunting season or competition year.
* Check it if your rifle suffers a significant bump or fall.
* Check it if you change ammunition types.
* A quick confirmation group with 2-3 shots is often all you need for peace of mind.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many shots does it take to zero a scope?
With good bore sighting, you can often get a solid zero in 10-15 rounds. Without it, you might use 20-30 rounds. The key is patience and using three-shot groups, not wasting shots on single adjustments.
What is the best distance to zero a hunting rifle?
For many common big game cartridges like .308 or .30-06, a 100-yard zero is excellent. For flatter cartridges like the .270 or 6.5 Creedmoor, a 200-yard zero can extend your point-blank range. Consider the typical distances you shoot at game and choose accordingly.
Why does my zero keep changing?
Common culprits include loose scope mounts, a shifting stock or action screw, using different ammunition, or a parallax setting that’s off. Also, cheap optics may not hold zero reliably due to internal mechanisms failing. Environmental factors like extreme temperature swings can sometimes effect things too.
Can I zero my rifle at 25 yards?
Yes, this is a useful technique for AR-style platforms or when you only have access to a short range. A 25-yard zero often translates to being on target again at 100 or 200 yards, depending on the cartridge. You’ll need to consult a ballistic chart for your specific load to confirm.
What’s the difference between a mechanical zero and a true zero?
A mechanical zero is when your scope’s turrets are centered in their internal range of travel. A true zero is the specific adjustment your rifle needs to hit the target. You find your true zero through shooting; it has nothing to do with the mechanical starting point of the scope.
How do I adjust the windage and elevation on my scope?
You use the turrets, usually covered by caps, on the top and side of the scope. The top turret adjusts elevation (up/down). The side turret adjusts windage (left/right). Turn them in the direction marked “UP” or “R” to move the point of impact that direction. Always refer to your scope’s manual.
Mastering how to zero your rifle scope is a rewarding skill. It demystifies your equipment and forms the foundation for accurate shooting. By taking your time, using a steady rest, and following a methodical process, you’ll ensure that when the crosshairs settle on your target, you can trust the shot. Now, go get zeroed and shoot with confidence.