Getting your rifle to hit where you aim is the first step to accurate shooting. Learning how to zeroing rifle scope is that essential process. It’s about aligning the crosshairs of your scope with the point of impact of your bullet at a specific distance. When done correctly, it builds confidence and ensures ethical, effective shots whether you’re hunting or target shooting.
This guide walks you through the entire process in simple, clear steps. You don’t need to be an expert, just patient and methodical. Let’s get your rifle and scope speaking the same language.
How to Zeroing Rifle Scope
Before you fire a single shot, proper preparation is key. Rushing this stage leads to frustration and wasted ammunition. Here’s what you need to do first.
Gather Your Gear and Ensure Safety
You’ll need a few essentials beyond your rifle and scope:
* Ammunition: Use the exact brand, bullet weight, and type you plan to shoot regularly. Changing ammo later can change your zero.
* A Solid Rest: A shooting bench with sandbags or a front bipod and rear bag is ideal. The goal is to support the rifle, not your body.
* Eye and Ear Protection: Always.
* A Screwdriver or Allen Wrenches: For adjusting your scope’s turrets.
* A Target: A target with a clear, small aiming point and a grid background is best for seeing bullet holes.
* A Safe Shooting Location: A proper rifle range with a known, safe backstop is highly recommended.
Mount Your Scope Correctly
A scope that isn’t mounted securely and squarely will never hold a zero. If you’re unsure about your mount, have a qualified gunsmith check it. Ensure all rings and base screws are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications with a torque wrench if possible. The rifle must be level in the rest, and the scope’s reticle should appear perfectly vertical and horizontal when you shoulder the rifle naturally.
Perform a Rough Bore Sight
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly, saving time and ammo. Secure your rifle in its rest. Safely remove the bolt (if applicable) and look directly down the barrel (the bore). Center the barrel on a target about 25 yards away. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope and adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the crosshairs are also centered on that same target. Your rifle is now roughly aligned.
Choosing Your Zero Distance
The “zero distance” is where your bullet’s point of impact matches your crosshairs. A common choice for many rifles is 100 yards. For closer-range hunting (like in thick woods), 50 yards might be better. For longer-range shooting, 100 yards is still the standard starting point. Decide based on your primary use.
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Now for the live-fire process. Follow these steps carefully.
1. Fire Your First Group: Set up your target at 25 yards. Using your solid rest, aim dead center at your target. Fire a group of three shots, taking your time between each shot to let the barrel cool slightly and aiming precisely the same each time. This is your starting group.
2. Analyze and Adjust at 25 Yards: Go downrange and look at your group. Using the grid on the target, measure how far the center of the group is from your point of aim. Adjust your scope turrets. Remember: “Up” on the elevation turret moves point of impact up. “Right” on the windage turret moves point of impact right. Most scopes move in clicks (e.g., ¼ inch at 100 yards). At 25 yards, each click is ¼ of that value.
3. Confirm at 25 Yards: Fire another 3-shot group after your adjustments. The center of this group should be very close to your aiming point. If it is, you’re ready to move to your final zero distance.
4. Move to Your Final Distance: Set your target at your chosen zero distance (e.g., 100 yards). Aim dead center and fire a new 3-shot group. The bullets will likely impact lower than at 25 yards due to bullet trajectory.
5. Make Final Adjustments: Measure the center of your 100-yard group. Now, use your scope’s specified click value (e.g., ¼ MOA) to move the crosshairs to the bullet holes. If your group is 4 inches low and 2 inches left, you would come up 16 clicks and right 8 clicks (assuming ¼ MOA clicks).
6. Fire a Confirmation Group: This is the most important step. Fire a final 3- to 5-shot group. The center of this group should be at your point of aim. If it is, congratulations—your rifle is zeroed!
Understanding Scope Turrets and Tracking
Scope turrets are the knobs on the top and side for elevation and windage. They have caps that you must remove to adjust. Always read your scope’s manual. Some scopes use Minute of Angle (MOA), others use Milliradians (MRAD). Know which you have. When you turn the turrets, you should hear and feel distinct clicks. These clicks must track reliably, meaning the point of impact moves the expected amount for each click. If it doesn’t, you may have a scope problem.
Tips for a Perfect, Lasting Zero
* Let your barrel cool: A hot barrel can warp slightly and change point of impact. Shoot slow and let it cool between groups.
* Consistency is king: Shoulder the rifle the same way, with the same cheek pressure, every single shot.
* Record your zero: Write down the ammo, distance, and any relevant conditions. Note how many clicks from bottom or a standard setting you used.
* Check it later: A zero can shift from bumps, temperature changes, or loose screws. It’s good practice to confirm your zero before an important hunt or match.
Common Zeroing Problems and Solutions
* Shots are all over the place (large group): This is likely you, not the rifle. Focus on fundamentals: steady rest, smooth trigger press, proper breathing. If groups stay large with different shooters, check the scope mounts or try different ammo.
* Adjustments don’t seem to work: Ensure you are turning the turrets in the correct direction. Double-check that the turret caps are off and your turning the actual adjustment knob. Also, make sure your rings aren’t too tight and pinching the scope tube.
* Zero shifts after a day at the range: This could be loose mounting hardware, a scope with poor internal tracking, or a shifting stock bedding. Systematically check all screws with the proper tools.
FAQ: Your Zeroing Questions Answered
How often should I re-zero my rifle?
You should check your zero at the start of any hunting season or competitive season, and after any significant impact (like dropping the rifle or airline travel). Otherwise, a good zero should hold for a long time.
What’s the best distance to zero a .223 rifle?
For a standard .223/5.56 rifle with a 55-62 grain bullet, a 50-yard or 100-yard zero is very common and practical. A 50-yard zero often means the bullet will be within a few inches of point of aim out to 200 yards, which is useful.
Can I zero my rifle without a shooting rest?
While you can zero from prone with a bipod and rear bag, a solid bench rest is highly recommended for beginners. It removes as much human error as possible, letting you isolate the rifle’s performance.
Why does my point of impact change with different ammo?
Every ammunition load has a unique velocity and bullet weight. This changes the bullet’s flight path (trajectory). Always zero with the ammo you intend to use. If you switch, you must verify your point of impact at the range.
Mastering how to zero your own rifle scope is a fundamental skill. It demystifies your equipment and gives you real confidence in the field. Take your time, be safe, and enjoy the process of making your rifle shoot exactly where you tell it to.