If you’ve just mounted a new scope or your shots are hitting off-target, you need to learn how do you adjust a rifle scope. Proper adjustment, or zeroing, is the process of aligning the point of aim with the point of impact, and it’s a fundamental skill for any shooter. This guide will walk you through the process from start to finish, ensuring you can hit what you’re aiming at with confidence.
How Do You Adjust a Rifle Scope
Before you start turning dials, it’s crucial to understand the basic components. The adjustment turrets, usually covered by caps, are located on the top and side of the scope. The top turret adjusts for elevation (up and down), while the side turret adjusts for windage (left and right). Each click of the turret moves the point of impact a specific distance at 100 yards, typically noted on the scope as “1/4 MOA” or “0.1 MRAD.”
Essential Tools and Safety Setup
You’ll need a few items before you begin. Gather a solid rifle rest or sandbags, your ammunition, a target, and a safe shooting environment. A boresighter can speed up the initial process, but it’s not strictly necessary.
- Safety First: Always treat every firearm as if it is loaded. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, and wear proper eye and ear protection.
- Stable Rest: Use a bench rest, sandbags, or a bipod to eliminate human error as much as possible. The rifle must be steadly supported.
- Appropriate Target: Use a target with a clear, high-contrast aiming point. Grid-pattern targets are excellent for seeing exactly where your shots land.
Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Follow these steps carefully to zero your rifle scope effectively. Patience is key—rushing will only waste time and ammunition.
Step 1: Initial Bore Sighting
This gets you on paper. Secure the rifle. Look directly through the barrel (bore) from the breech end and center the target. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s crosshairs to align with that same center point. A laser boresighter tool makes this step even easier.
Step 2: The First Three-Shot Group
Move to your live-fire range. From a stable position at 25 yards, fire a careful three-shot group. The goal here is consistency, not perfection. Aim at the exact same point for each shot.
Step 3: Measure and Calculate Adjustments
Now, examine your target. Find the center of your three-shot group. Measure the horizontal and vertical distance from that group center to your point of aim. Use your scope’s click value to calculate the needed adjustments. For example, if your group is 4 inches low and your scope adjusts 1/4 MOA per click, you need 16 clicks up (4 / 0.25 = 16).
Step 4: Make the Turret Adjustments
Remove the turret caps. Turn the elevation turret in the direction marked “UP” (usually clockwise) for the required clicks. Turn the windage turret in the direction marked “RIGHT” (also usually clockwise) for your calculated clicks. Remember: “Follow the shot.” If your group is low and left, you need to come up and right.
Step 5: Confirm and Fine-Tune at Distance
Fire another three-shot group at 25 yards to confirm you are now centered. Once you are, move to your intended zeroing distance (like 100 yards). Repeat the grouping and fine-adjustment process until your point of aim matches your point of impact. This may take a few iterations.
Understanding MOA vs. MRAD
Scopes use one of two measurement systems, and knowing which you have is vital.
- MOA (Minute of Angle): An MOA is about 1 inch at 100 yards (technically 1.047″). A scope with 1/4 MOA clicks moves impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards, 1/2 inch at 200 yards, etc.
- MRAD (Milliradian): An MRAD is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards. A scope with 0.1 MRAD clicks moves impact 0.36 inches at 100 yards. This system is based on metrics and is often easier for long-range calculations.
Never mix the two systems when making adjustments, as it will through off your zero completely.
Common Adjustment Problems and Fixes
Sometimes, things don’t go smoothly. Here are solutions to frequent issues.
- Scope Won’t Adjust Far Enough: Your scope may be mounted incorrectly. Check that the rings and base are tight and that the scope is properly aligned in the rings.
- Inconsistent Groups: This is usually a shooter or equipment issue, not the scope. Focus on steady fundamentals, check that all screws (action, base, rings) are properly torqued, and ensure your ammunition is consistent.
- Adjustments Seem Backwards: Double-check the turret directions. Some scopes, especially older models, may turn opposite of the standard. Always verify by firing after a small adjustment.
Final Checks and Maintenance
Once zeroed, you’re almost done. Securely replace the turret caps without disturbing the turrets. Some shooters like to mark their zero with a paint pen for reference. Record your zero settings and the ammunition used in a log book. Remember to periodically check your zero, especially before an important hunt or competition, as bumps and travel can shift it.
FAQ Section
How many shots does it take to zero a scope?
It can vary, but with good bore sighting, you can often get a rough zero in 6-9 shots. Fine-tuning may take another 5-10 rounds. Always allow your barrel to cool between groups for best accuracy.
What distance should I zero my rifle at?
The common distances are 100 yards for high-velocity rifles and 50 yards for .22 LR rifles. Your ideal zero depends on your cartridge and intended use. A 100-yard zero is a great starting point for most centerfire hunting rifles.
Why do I need to re-zero my scope?
Changes in ammunition, a significant impact to the rifle, or even loosening mounting hardware can cause your zero to shift. Its good practice to confirm your zero at the start of any shooting season or after traveling with your firearm.