Getting your shots to hit where you aim is the first step to becoming a confident rifle shooter. Learning how to zero in a rifle scope is that essential process. It aligns the crosshairs of your scope with the point of impact of your bullet at a specific distance. When done correctly, it builds a foundation of accuracy for hunting, target shooting, or defense.
A proper zero accounts for your rifle, ammunition, and typical shooting distance. While it might seem technical, it’s a straightforward task you can master with some basic tools and patience. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from setup to final confirmation.
How to Zero in a Rifle Scope
Before you fire a single shot, you need to set the stage for success. Proper preparation makes the zeroing process safer, easier, and more efficient.
First, ensure your rifle is unloaded and the muzzle is pointed in a safe direction. Gather your essential tools: your rifle, the correct ammunition, a solid rest (like sandbags or a bipod), a target, and eye and ear protection. A spotting scope or binoculars are incredibly helpful for seeing your shot holes without walking downrange constantly.
Mount your scope securely to your rifle using a proper base and rings. Torque the screws to the manufacturer’s specifications with a torque wrench if possible. A loose scope will never hold a zero. Next, perform a rough bore sight. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it manually. With the rifle secured in a rest, remove the bolt and look directly down the bore. Center the target in the barrel, then without moving the rifle, adjust the windage and elevation turrets on your scope until the crosshairs are also centered on that same target. This gets you on paper at short range, saving time and ammo.
Choosing Your Zero Distance
Your “zero distance” is the range at which your bullet’s point of impact matches your point of aim. The best distance depends on your rifle’s cartridge and it’s primary use.
* .22 LR Rifles: A 25 or 50-yard zero is common for plinking and small game.
* Modern Sporting Rifles (5.56/.223): A 50-yard zero or 100-yard zero are both popular, affecting the rifle’s trajectory at other ranges.
* Big Game Hunting Rifles: For cartridges like .308 Win or .30-06, a 100-yard or 200-yard zero is standard. This provides a relatively flat trajectory for ethical shots at varying distances.
* Long-Range Precision Rifles: These often start with a 100-yard zero to establish a precise baseline before calculating holds for longer ranges.
Consider where you’ll be shooting most often. A 100-yard zero is a great starting point for many centerfire rifles.
The Step-by-Step Zeroing Process
Now for the practical part. Follow these steps methodically. Remember, the goal is consistency.
1. Set Up at the Range. Position yourself and your rifle on a stable bench. The rifle should rest solidly on the bags or bipod, with you applying light shoulder pressure, not forcing it. The stock should fit you comfortably.
2. Fire Your First Group. Aim at the exact center of your target. Fire a three-shot group, taking your time between each shot. Let the barrel cool if it gets hot. This first group shows you where the rifle is hitting relative to your aim.
3. Analyze the Group. Use your spotting scope to locate the group. Don’t adjust for a single flyer; look for the center of the three-shot cluster.
4. Make the Initial Adjustments. Here’s where you use the turrets on your scope. The top turret adjusts elevation (up and down). The side turret adjusts windage (left and right). Most scopes move the point of impact in the direction you turn the knob (e.g., turning “Up” moves the impact up). Check your scope manual to be sure. Measure how far your group center is from your aim point in inches.
5. Apply the Correction. You need to know your scope’s adjustment value, usually noted as “¼ MOA per click.” At 100 yards, ¼ MOA is roughly ¼ inch. If your group is 4 inches low and 2 inches left, you’d come up sixteen clicks (4 ÷ 0.25 = 16) and right eight clicks (2 ÷ 0.25 = 8).
6. Fire a Confirmation Group. Fire another three-shot group at the center aim point. The group should now be much closer to, or directly on, your point of aim.
7. Fine-Tune and Finalize. Make smaller, refined adjustments based on this new group. Once you have a three-shot group centered where you’re aiming, your initial zero is complete.
Confirming and Recording Your Zero
Your work isn’t quite done after the range session. A zero needs to be confirmed and recorded.
Fire a final group of three to five shots to ensure consistency. This is your proof. Then, without turning the turrets, note their positions. Many shooters use a small notebook or their phone to record the number on the turret index marks. Some scopes have a zero-stop feature; if yours does, set it according to the manual.
It’s also wise to verify your zero at different distances. Shoot at 50 yards to see how low or high the bullet strikes, and perhaps at 200 yards. This gives you a practical understanding of your rifle’s trajectory.
Common Zeroing Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced shooters can make errors. Being aware of these helps you avoid them.
* An Unstable Rest: Don’t try to hold the rifle freehand or use a wobbly rest. Consistency in the rifle’s position is non-negotiable.
* Chasing a Single Shot: Always adjust based on a group, not one lone bullet hole. That single shot could be an error on your part.
* Ignoring Scope Basics: Not knowing your click values or which direction the turrets adjust will lead to frustration. Read the manual first.
* Rushing the Process: Let the barrel cool. Take your time between shots. A hot barrel can cause shots to “walk” away from the point of aim.
* Forgetting Ammo Consistency: Your zero is specific to the ammunition you use. If you switch brands or bullet weights, you need to re-zero or at least verify the point of impact.
Maintaining Your Zero Over Time
A zero can shift. Regular checks are part of responsible rifle ownership. Check your zero at the start of a new hunting season or before an important match. Ensure all mounting screws are tight (but not over-tightened). Store your rifle properly and avoid hard impacts to the scope. With good care, a quality scope should hold it’s zero reliably for a long time.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many shots does it take to zero a scope?
With good bore sighting, you can often get a solid zero in 10-15 rounds. Budget for 20-30 rounds to allow for fine-tuning and confirmation.
What is the difference between a 50-yard and 100-yard zero?
It’s about trajectory. A 50-yard zero for a 5.56 rifle means the bullet will also hit at 200 yards with little drop in between. A 100-yard zero rises slightly at 50 yards and drops more noticeably at 200. The “best” one depends on your expected engagement distances.
Can I zero my rifle at 25 yards?
Yes, especially for rimfire rifles or if you only have short range access. For centerfire rifles, a 25-yard zero can approximate a 100-yard zero, but you must confirm at the longer distance when possible. Ballistic calculators can help with this conversion.
Why did my zero change?
Common causes include loose scope mounts, a change in ammunition, a significant impact to the scope or rifle, or even drastic changes in temperature or altitude in some cases.
Learning how to zero in a rifle scope is a fundamental skill. It connects you directly to your equipment’s performance. By following a careful process, avoiding common pitfalls, and regularly confirming your settings, you ensure that when you look through the crosshairs, you can trust the shot will go exactly where you intend.