Getting started with a rifle scope can feel a bit overwhelming. This guide will walk you through the basics of how to use rifle scope so you can hit your target with confidence. A scope is a powerful tool that magnifies your target and provides a precise aiming point, but only if it’s set up and used correctly. Let’s break it down into simple, manageable steps.
First, you need to understand the main parts. The eyepiece is the part you look through, and the objective lens is the larger lens at the front. The windage and elevation turrets are the knobs used to adjust your point of impact left/right and up/down. The power ring changes the magnification level on variable scopes. Knowing these parts is the first step to mastering your optic.
How to Use Rifle Scope
Using a scope properly involves three main phases: mounting and zeroing, learning to aim, and making adjustments for different situations. We’ll cover each one in detail.
Mounting Your Scope Correctly
A scope that isn’t mounted securely and squarely will never perform well. Here’s how to get it right:
* Gather Tools: You’ll need a quality base and rings that fit your rifle, a screwdriver or hex keys, and a torque wrench is highly recommended.
* Attach the Base: Secure the base to the rifle’s receiver using the proper screws, following manufacturer torque specifications.
* Set the Rings: Place the bottom halves of the rings on the base. Before placing the scope, set a rough eye relief.
* Establish Eye Relief: This is the distance between your eye and the eyepiece. With the rifle in your shoulder, slide the scope forward or back until you see a full, clear picture without any black shadowy rings. This is critical for safety and consistency.
* Level the Scope: Use a leveling tool or a simple plumb line method to ensure the reticle is perfectly vertical. A canted scope causes missed shots, especially at distance.
* Secure the Scope: Place the top halves of the rings on and finger-tighten the screws. Double-check eye relief and level, then tighten the screws gradually and evenly in a crisscross pattern with the torque wrench.
The Process of Zeroing Your Rifle
Zeroing means aligning the point of aim with the point of impact at a specific distance. A 100-yard zero is common for starters.
1. Bore Sight First: This gets you on paper. Remove the bolt, look down the bore, and center a target. Without moving the rifle, adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the reticle is centered on that same target.
2. Fire a Three-Shot Group: From a solid rest, fire a group of three shots at your target. Aim for the exact same point each time.
3. Analyze the Group: Don’t adjust after every single shot. See where the center of your three-shot group is in relation to your aim point.
4. Make Adjustments: Use the turrets to move the point of impact. Scopes adjust in Minutes of Angle (MOA). Usually, one “click” moves the impact ¼ inch at 100 yards. If your group is 4 inches low and 2 inches left, you’d come up 16 clicks and right 8 clicks.
5. Confirm: Fire another three-shot group to confirm. Repeat the process until your group is centered on your aim point.
Mastering the Art of Aiming
Aiming isn’t just putting the crosshair on target. Proper technique is everything.
* Consistent Cheek Weld: Your cheek must rest on the stock the same way every time. This ensures your eye is in the right spot to see through the scope clearly.
* Focus on the Reticle: Your eye should be focused on the reticle, not the target. The target image should be sharp, but the reticle is your primary focus. This prevents parallax error, where the reticle appears to move on the target if your head shifts.
* Use the Whole System: A steady position, controlled breathing, and a smooth trigger press are just as important as the scope itself. The scope can’t fix bad fundamentals.
Understanding Turrets and Adjustments
Knowing how to use your turrets is key for precision.
Windage and Elevation
The side turret (windage) adjusts left and right. The top turret (elevation) adjusts up and down. Always refer to your scope’s manual for the specific value of each click. After zeroing, many shooters “zero” their turrets by loosening the set screw and setting the marked dial to “0.”
Parallax Adjustment
Higher-end scopes have a parallax knob, usually on the side or objective bell. If you move your head and the reticle seems to float over the target, you have parallax error. Adjust this knob until the reticle appears fixed on the target, regardless of minor head movement. This is crucial for long-range accuracy.
Magnification Ring
On variable scopes (e.g., 3-9x), you can zoom in and out. Use lower power for closer targets or wider fields of view. Use higher power to see distant targets more clearly. Remember, higher magnification also amplifies shake and mirage.
Practical Shooting Tips for Beginners
* Start Close: Begin practicing at 50 yards to build confidence before moving to 100 or further.
* Keep a Dope Book: “Dope” stands for Data On Previous Engagements. Record your zero, how many clicks you needed to adjust at various distances, and how wind affected your bullet. This is invaluable.
* Practice in Different Positions: Don’t just shoot from a bench. Practice prone, kneeling, and off-hand with your scope.
* Learn Holdovers: If you don’t have time to dial your turrets, learn how to use the markings on your reticle (like mil-dots or hash marks) to hold over or under the target.
* Check Your Zero: Always verify your zero, especially if the rifle has been bumped, transported, or if you change ammunition brands.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
* Canting the Rifle: Keeping the rifle level is critical. A tilted rifle makes your shots go off horizontally.
* Improper Eye Relief: Too close and the scope might hit you during recoil. Too far and you’ll get a restricted view.
* Over-Tightening Mount Screws: This can damage the scope tube. Always use a torque wrench if possible.
* Chasing Shots: Don’t adjust the turrets after every single shot. Trust the group.
* Forgetting to Focus the Reticle: This is a super common error that leads to inconsistent accuracy.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What does 3-9×40 mean on a rifle scope?
The “3-9x” means the scope has variable magnification from 3 power to 9 power. The “40” refers to the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters, which affects light gathering.
How do I sight in a rifle scope at 100 yards?
Follow the zeroing steps outlined above. Start with bore sighting, then fire a three-shot group at a 100-yard target. Adjust your windage and elevation turrets based on where the group hits, then confirm with another group.
Why can’t I see a clear picture through my scope?
First, check the diopter adjustment on the eyepiece. Twist it until the reticle is sharp and clear for your eye. Second, ensure you have proper eye relief and cheek weld. If the image is dark, you may need a scope with a larger objective lens.
What is the difference between MOA and MRAD scopes?
MOA (Minute of Angle) and MRAD (Milliradian) are just different angular units of measurement for adjustments. 1 MOA is about 1 inch at 100 yards. 1 MRAD is about 3.6 inches at 100 yards. Both work fine; choose one and learn it’s system consistently.
How often should I re-zero my scope?
You should check your zero at the start of a hunting season or competitive season, or if your rifle suffers a significant impact. Also check if you change your ammunition type, as different loads will shoot to different points of impact. Regular practice will help you know when something feels off.
With this knowledge, you’re ready to get out there and practice. Remember, proficiency with a rifle scope comes with time and repetition. Start with a solid foundation of mounting and zeroing, then work on your aiming technique. Always prioritize safety, and enjoy the process of becoming a more precise and confident shooter.