Getting your shots to land where you aim starts with a proper installation. Learning how to mount a rifle scope correctly is the most important step to accuracy, more so than the rifle or scope itself. A poorly mounted scope will cause endless frustration, wasted ammunition, and missed opportunities. This guide will walk you through the process with simple, step-by-step instructions to ensure you get it right the first time.
A solid mount is the foundation for everything. It doesn’t matter if you have the best scope in the world; if it’s not secured properly, it will never hold zero. We’ll cover the tools you need, the mounting procedure, and the final critical adjustments for accuracy.
How to Mount a Rifle Scope Correctly
Before you touch a screw, you need to gather the right equipment. Having everything on hand makes the job smoother and prevents mistakes.
Essential Tools & Components:
* Scope Rings and Base: These must match your rifle’s mounting system (e.g., Picatinny, Weaver, dovetail) and the tube diameter of your scope (usually 1 inch or 30mm). Quality matters here—don’t skimp.
* Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set or Torx Drivers: Using the correct bit is non-negotiable. A regular screwdriver can slip and ruin screw heads.
* Torque Wrench (in inch-pounds): This is the secret weapon for a correct mount. It ensures you tighten screws to the manufacturer’s specification, preventing damage or loosening.
* Gun Vice or a Very Stable Rest: This holds your rifle securely without scratching it.
* Leveling Kit (or Improvised Tools): This can include a set of wheeler levels or simple bubble levels to ensure everything is straight.
* Loctite 242 (Blue): For securing ring and base screws, but always check the manufacturer’s instructions first.
Preparing Your Rifle and Workspace
First, ensure your rifle is completely unloaded. Remove the bolt or open the action so you can see clearly through the barrel from breech to muzzle. This is a critical safety step. Place the rifle securely in your gun vice, making sure it’s sitting level and won’t move.
Next, install the scope base onto the receiver if it isn’t already. Apply a small drop of blue Loctite to the base screws unless the instructions say not to. Use your torque wrench to tighten them to the specified value, which is often between 15-25 in-lbs. Always follow a crisscross pattern when tightening multiple screws to ensure even pressure.
Leveling and Aligning the Scope
This is the most crucial part for achieving correct windage and elevation tracking. If your scope is canted (tilted), your adjustments will be off.
1. Level the Rifle: Place a small bubble level in the action’s flat area or on a section of the picatinny rail. Adjust the rifle in the vice until it is perfectly level.
2. Set the Bottom Ring: Place the bottom halves of your scope rings on the base and lightly tighten them just enough so they don’t slide easily.
3. Position the Scope: Carefully lay the scope into the bottom rings. Adjust it so that the eyepiece is at the correct eye relief for you. You should see a full, clear picture without any dark shadowy ring when you shoulder the rifle naturally.
4. Level the Scope: Now, place a level across the flat top cap of the elevation turret (the scope must be in its neutral position). Gently rotate the entire scope in the rings until this level reads true. The rifle’s level and the scope’s level must now match.
5. Secure the Top Rings: Place the top halves of the rings on and start threading the screws by hand. Again, follow a crisscross pattern, tightening each screw a little at a time. This prevents putting sideways pressure on the scope tube, which can damage it.
The Final Torquing Process
Here’s where your torque wrench earns its keep. Overtightening is a common error that can crush a scope tube.
* Start with the ring screws that connect the two ring halves. Tighten them gradually in a diagonal pattern to the manufacturer’s recommended setting. This is often between 15-18 in-lbs for the ring screws.
* Next, torque the ring-to-base screws to their spec, which might be slightly higher.
* Do not torque the cap on the windage or elevation turrets; these are for adjustment later.
Bore Sighting and Initial Zeroing
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly, saving time and ammo. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it visually.
Visual Method:
Secure the rifle in a steady rest. Remove the bolt and look directly down the bore from the breech. Center a distant object (like a target 50 yards away) in the barrel. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope. Adjust the windage and elevation turrets until the crosshair is centered on that same object. Your scope is now roughly bore-sighted.
Final Zero:
Take your rifle to the range. Fire a three-shot group at a target at 25 yards. Adjust your crosshairs to move the point of impact to your point of aim. Then, move out to your desired zeroing distance (like 100 yards) and repeat the process. Fire, group, and adjust until your point of impact matches your point of aim. Remember to always let the barrel cool between groups for consistency.
Common Mounting Mistakes to Avoid
* Not Using a Torque Wrench: Guessing the tightness leads to problems.
* Ignoring Eye Relief: Getting this wrong causes poor sight picture and even scope eye (getting hit by the eyepiece under recoil).
* Overtightening: This is the fastest way to ruin a good scope.
* Forgetting to Level: A canted scope means missed shots, especially at longer distances.
* Rushing the Process: Take your time. Patience here pays off with accuracy on the range or in the field.
Frequently Asked Questions
How tight should scope ring screws be?
Always refer to your ring manufacturer’s specifications. A general safe range is 15-18 inch-pounds for the ring screws, but this can vary. Using a torque wrench is the only reliable way to know.
Do I need to use Loctite on my scope mounts?
Blue Loctite (242) is commonly recommended for the base screws to prevent them from loosening under recoil. However, some high-end mounts use specialized threads or coatings that advise against it. Check your manual. Avoid using Loctite on the ring screws themselves unless specified.
Why won’t my scope hold zero?
The most likely culprit is a loose mount. Check that all base and ring screws are properly torqued. Other causes can be a defective scope, the scope rings putting uneven pressure on the tube, or a poor quality base. It’s also possible the rings are misaligned with the base.
Can I mount a scope without a gun vise?
It is possible, but not recommended. A vise holds the rifle absolutely steady, which is vital for proper leveling and alignment. Trying to hold the rifle between your knees often leads to a canted scope and frustration.
How do I find the correct eye relief?
Mount the scope loosely. Shoulder the rifle with your eyes closed in your natural firing position. When you open your eyes, you should instantly see a full field of view. If you see a black ring (shadow), adjust the scope forward or backward until the picture is full and clear. Have someone mark the position for you before tightening.
Mounting a scope correctly might seem technical, but by following these steps carefully, you can do it yourself with confidence. The result is a solid, reliable platform that allows your rifle and scope to perform as they were designed. Taking this time upfront ensures every shot afterwards counts. Remember to always double-check your mount’s tightness periodically, especially after the first few range trips, to ensure everything has settled in securely.