Learning how do you sight in a rifle scope is a fundamental skill for any shooter. It’s the process of aligning your scope’s point of aim with your rifle’s point of impact, and it’s essential for accuracy. Whether you’re a hunter, a target shooter, or just getting started, a properly sighted-in rifle builds confidence and ensures ethical, effective shots. This guide will walk you through the entire process in simple, clear steps.
How Do You Sight In A Rifle Scope
Before you head to the range, you need to understand what “sighting in” really means. It’s not just turning knobs until shots hit somewhere near the bullseye. It’s a methodical adjustment to make the crosshairs match where the bullet lands at a specific distance. Doing this correctly means your holdovers and windage estimates will be reliable in the field.
Gather Your Essential Gear
Having the right equipment makes the job smoother and safer. Here’s what you’ll need:
- A zeroed rifle with the scope securely mounted and rings properly torqued.
- The correct ammunition you plan to use regularly (consistency is key).
- A solid shooting rest, like sandbags or a bipod combined with a rear bag.
- Eye and ear protection.
- A target with a clearly visible aiming point. A large grid-style target is best for initial sighting.
- A screwdriver or coin for caps, and the correct allen wrench for your scope’s adjustment turrets.
- A spotting scope or binoculars to see your shots without walking downrange each time.
Preparing at Home: Bore Sighting
Bore sighting gets you on paper quickly, saving time and ammunition. You can use a laser bore sighter or do it manually. For the manual method, securely rest your rifle, remove the bolt, and look directly down the bore. Center the bore on a small object about 25 yards away. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope’s windage and elevation turrets until the crosshairs are centered on that same object. This is a rough alignment, but it helps tremendiously.
Understanding Your Scope’s Adjustments
Every rifle scope has two main adjustment turrets, usually protected by caps. The knob on top adjusts elevation (up and down). The knob on the side adjusts windage (left and right). Turning them in the direction marked “UP” or “R” will move the point of impact in that direction. Most scopes click with each adjustment, and each click equals a specific change at 100 yards (e.g., 1/4 MOA). Check your scope’s manual to be sure.
The Step-by-Step Sighting Process
Now for the live-fire process. Follow these steps carefully for the best results.
- Set Up Safely: Choose a safe range with a known-distance target, preferably 100 yards for most rifles. Set up your solid rest so the rifle is supported but you can still shoulder it comfortably. The barrel should not touch anything.
- The First Shot: Aim carefully at the bullseye and fire a single, steady shot. This is your reference point. Try to make this shot as perfect as possible to eliminate human error.
- Locate the Impact: Using your spotting scope, find where the bullet hit. If it’s not on the paper, use a larger target or move closer to 25 yards to get on paper first.
- Adjust the Scope: Here’s the core action. Do NOT move the aiming point. If your shot hit 4 inches low and 2 inches left, you need to move the point of impact up and right. So, you would turn the elevation turret “UP” the required number of clicks (e.g., 16 clicks for 4 inches at 1/4 MOA per click) and the windage turret “R” for 2 inches (8 clicks).
- Fire a Confirmation Group: After adjusting, fire a three-shot group. Aim carefully for the center each time. This group shows your true zero, not just one lucky shot.
- Fine-Tune: Find the center of your three-shot group. Make any final, small adjustments to move that group center to your aiming point. Fire another group to confirm.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
- Shots are Inconsistent: This is usually the shooter, not the rifle. Focus on steady breathing, a smooth trigger press, and consistent cheek weld. Let the barrel cool between groups.
- Adjustments Seem Wrong: Double-check which way you’re turning the turrets. Remember, you are moving the point of impact toward your point of aim. If you’re confused, put the rifle in the rest, aim at the bullseye, and have a friend turn the turret while you watch which way the crosshairs move relative to the bullseye.
- Running Out of Adjustment: If you’ve maxed out your turrets and still aren’t zeroed, the scope might not be mounted correctly. The bases or rings may need shimming, or you might need a different mount with a built-in cant. This is a common issue with some rifle and scope combinations.
Finalizing and Recording Your Zero
Once you have a consistent three-shot group centered on your bullseye, you’re zeroed. It’s crucial to record your settings. Many scopes have a zero-stop or a way to reset the turret dial to zero. Write down the ammunition used, the date, the distance, and any environmental notes. This gives you a baseline to return to if turrets get bumped or you change ammo later.
FAQ: Your Sighting-In Questions Answered
What distance should I sight my rifle in at?
For most centerfire rifles used in hunting, 100 yards is the standard. For rimfire rifles like a .22 LR, 50 yards is more common. Some hunters use a “maximum point blank range” zero, which depends on the cartridge and intended game.
How often should I re-check my zero?
You should check it at the start of each hunting season, if you drop your rifle hard, or if you notice a change in performance. Ammo lot changes can also effect point of impact slightly.
Can I sight in my scope without a shooting rest?
While it’s possible, it’s not recommended. A rest minimizes human error, which is critical for finding the rifle’s true mechanical zero. Using improvised rests like backpacks is better than nothing, but a proper sandbag setup is ideal for consistency.
What’s the difference between mechanical zero and true zero?
A mechanical zero is when your scope’s turrets are centered in their internal adjustment range. Your true zero is the specific turret positions where your rifle hits the target at your chosen distance. They are rarely the same thing.
Why do my first shots from a cold barrel sometimes differ?
Some rifles, especially lightweight hunting models, can have a “cold bore shift.” The first shot from a clean, cold barrel may land slightly different than subsequent shots. This is why some shooters fire one “fouling” shot before finalizing their zero or heading into the field.
Mastering how to sight in your rifle scope is a rewarding process. It demystifies your equipment and gives you direct control over your accuracy. Take your time, be patient, and focus on consistency in every step—from your setup to your trigger pull. With a solid zero, you can head out with the confidence that your rifle will perform exactly as you expect.