If you’ve ever looked through a telescope and wished you could save that view, you’re in the right place. Learning how to take pictures through a telescope is an exciting next step for any stargazer. It lets you capture the rings of Saturn, the craters of the Moon, or distant galaxies to share and enjoy later. This guide will walk you through the methods, from simple to advanced, so you can start creating your own astronomical images.
How To Take Pictures Through A Telescope
Astrophotography might sound complex, but it breaks down into a few main methods. The best one for you depends on your gear, budget, and patience. We’ll cover smartphone photography, using a dedicated astronomy camera, and the popular DSLR or mirrorless camera approach. Each has its pros and cons, but all can produce stunning results.
Essential Gear You’ll Need to Get Started
Before you point your camera at the sky, you need the right equipment. The telescope is just one piece of the puzzle. A stable mount is actually more important than the telescope itself for photography. Here’s a breakdown of the core components.
The Telescope Itself
Not all telescopes are equally good for photography. Refractors (which use lenses) are often recommended for beginners because they have fewer optical issues. Reflectors (which use mirrors) offer more aperture for the money but may need frequent adjustment. Avoid very long, bulky telescopes, as they can be harder to balance and more sensitive to wind.
A Rock-Solid Mount
This is the most critical piece. A flimsy mount will ruin your photos with vibration and blur. You need an equatorial mount that can track the stars, compensating for Earth’s rotation. A motorized “GoTo” mount is a huge help, but a simple motor-driven equatorial mount is a great starting point.
Cameras and Adapters
Your camera choice defines your method. You’ll also need specific adapters to connect your camera to the telescope. These replace the eyepiece and allow the telescope to act as a giant camera lens. We’ll detail the adapters for each method below.
Other Useful Tools
- A remote shutter release or intervalometer to prevent camera shake.
- Extra batteries and memory cards—long exposures drain power and fill cards fast.
- Software for controlling your camera and processing the final images.
- A red flashlight to preserve your night vision while you setup.
Method 1: Smartphone Astrophotography (The Easiest Start)
Your phone is a powerful camera already in your pocket. It’s the perfect, low-cost way to dip your toes into astrophotography. You can capture the Moon, bright planets, and even star clusters with this method.
Required Equipment
- Your smartphone.
- A telescope with an eyepiece.
- A smartphone adapter mount (clamps onto the eyepiece).
Step-by-Step Guide
- Set up your telescope on a stable mount and let it cool to the outdoor temperature.
- Insert a low-power eyepiece (like a 25mm) and point your telescope at a bright target, like the Moon.
- Focus the telescope carefully until the view is sharp.
- Attach the smartphone adapter to the eyepiece, ensuring it’s centered and secure.
- Open your phone’s camera app. Turn off the flash and set it to manual or “Pro” mode if available.
- Adjust the ISO and shutter speed manually. Start with ISO 400 and a fast shutter (like 1/125s) for the Moon.
- Tap the screen to set focus, then use your telescope’s focuser for the final, fine adjustment.
- Use a timer or voice command to take the photo to avoid shaking.
This method is great for learning the basics of alignment and focus. The main limitation is that phones aren’t sensitive enough for faint deep-sky objects like nebulas. Also, holding the phone by hand almost never works—you really need that adapter for steady shots.
Method 2: Using a DSLR or Mirrorless Camera
This is the most versatile method. A DSLR or mirrorless camera allows for long exposures and captures much more detail and color than a phone. You can use it for planetary imaging, but it truly shines on deep-sky objects.
Connecting Your Camera: Prime Focus
In prime focus photography, you attach the camera directly to the telescope, which becomes your lens. You’ll need a T-Ring for your specific camera brand and a T-Adapter that fits your telescope’s focuser. This setup removes the eyepiece entirely.
- Remove the camera’s lens and attach the T-Ring.
- Insert the T-Adapter into your telescope’s focuser (like an eyepiece would go).
- Connect the T-Ring to the T-Adapter. Your camera is now attached to the scope.
Camera Settings for Deep Sky
Capturing faint galaxies requires long exposures. Use manual mode.
- Set your camera to shoot in RAW format for the most data.
- Start with an ISO between 800 and 1600. You’ll need to experiment.
- Set your shutter speed. Start with 30-second to 2-minute exposures, depending on your mount’s tracking accuracy.
- Set the aperture wide open (it’s controlled by the telescope, not the camera).
- Focus is tricky. Use your camera’s live view on a bright star, zoom in digitally, and adjust the telescope focuser until the star is a tiny, sharp point.
The Importance of Tracking and Calibration
For exposures longer than a few seconds, your equatorial mount must be accurately polar-aligned. This means aligning its axis with the Earth’s rotational axis. You’ll also need to take special calibration frames—dark, bias, and flat frames—to remove noise and imperfections from your final image. This is a key step for clean results.
Method 3: Dedicated Astronomy Cameras
These cameras are designed specifically for astrophotography. They are more sensitive to light and often cooled to reduce noise. They connect directly to a computer and are controlled by software. There are two main types.
Planetary Cameras
These are small, high-speed video cameras. You take a video of a planet, and then software stacks the best frames to create a sharp, detailed image. They are very affordable and excellent for the Moon and planets.
Cooled Monochrome Cameras
These are the top-tier tools for deep-sky imaging. They are cooled to sub-zero temperatures to eliminate thermal noise. They often use filters (Red, Green, Blue, and Hydrogen-alpha) to capture incredible detail. This method is complex and expensive but produces the best possible images.
Processing Your Astrophotos: The Magic Step
Rarely does a raw astrophoto look impressive. Processing is where you bring out the hidden data. You’ll use software to stack multiple exposures and enhance the result.
Stacking Multiple Frames
Stacking means combining many individual photos of the same target. This averages out noise and boosts the signal of your target. For planetary images, you stack thousands of video frames. For deep-sky, you stack dozens or hundreds of long-exposure photos. Free software like DeepSkyStacker or Registax handles this well.
Basic Image Adjustment
After stacking, you have a single, cleaner image file. Now you use software like Adobe Photoshop, GIMP (free), or specialized tools to adjust levels, curves, and saturation. The goal is to stretch the data so the faint details become visible without making the image look unnatural. Don’t overdo it—subtle adjustments are often best.
Common Challenges and How to Solve Them
You will encounter problems. Everyone does. Here are solutions to the most frequent issues.
Blurry or Out-of-Focus Images
Focus is a constant battle. Temperature changes can shift it. Use a Bahtinov mask—a simple, cheap tool that creates a diffraction pattern on a bright star, making perfect focus obvious. Always check focus every 30-60 minutes during a imaging session.
Star Trails in Your Photos
If your stars look like dashes instead of dots, your tracking is off. This is caused by poor polar alignment, mount vibration, or an unbalanced telescope. Re-check your polar alignment procedure and ensure your setup is balanced on both axes. Also, make sure your mount’s tracking motor is turned on (it happens to everyone!).
Weird Colors or Grainy Noise
High ISO can introduce color noise and grain. This is where taking those calibration frames (darks, flats) becomes essential. They remove sensor noise, dust spots, and vignetting. Don’t skip this step if you want a smooth, clean background sky.
Finding Your Target
It’s hard to aim a long telescope and camera precisely. Start by using a low-power finderscope or a “red dot” finder to get close. Then, take a short test exposure (like 5 seconds at high ISO) and see what’s in the frame. Adjust and repeat until your target is centered. This is called “framing” your shot.
Your First Projects: What to Photograph
Start with easy, bright targets to build your skills and confidence.
- The Moon: The perfect first target. It’s bright, detailed, and easy to find. Try capturing different phases.
- Jupiter and Saturn: Bright planets. You can capture Jupiter’s cloud bands and its moons, or Saturn’s rings with a modest telescope.
- Bright Star Clusters: Objects like the Pleiades (M45) or the Hercules Cluster (M13) are forgiving and look great even with short exposures.
- Orion Nebula (M42): The brightest nebula in the sky. It shows color and detail even for beginners using a DSLR.
Remember, patience is your most important tool. Your first images might not be perfect, but each session teaches you something new. Take notes on your settings and conditions so you can learn and improve.
FAQ Section
Can I use any telescope for astrophotography?
Not all telescopes are ideal, but many can be used. Short-tube refractors are often recommended for beginners. The mount’s stability is more important than the telescope type for getting good pictures.
What is the cheapest way to start taking pictures with a telescope?
The most affordable method is using your smartphone with a telescope adapter. This lets you capture the Moon and planets for a relatively small investment, under $50 for the adapter.
Why are my astrophotos always blurry?
Blurriness usually comes from three things: poor focus, vibration during the exposure, or bad tracking. Use a Bahtinov mask for focus, a remote shutter, and ensure your mount is well polar-aligned and balanced.
How long of an exposure do I need for nebulas?
It varies, but you typically need many exposures that are at least 30 seconds to several minutes long. These are then stacked together in software. A single short exposure won’t capture much detail from faint objects.
Do I need a computer in the field?
For simple DSLR or smartphone work, no. For controlled long-exposure runs or using a dedicated astronomy camera, yes, a laptop is usually necessary to control the camera and mount.
What’s the biggest mistake beginners make?
Rushing. They try to photograph faint galaxies on their first night with a poorly aligned mount. Start with the Moon, master focus and basic tracking, then move to brighter deep-sky objects. Taking it step-by-step leads to much better results and less frustration.